Project Pitch

On arrival in Nairobi we immediately knew we were back in Kenya. After getting off the aeroplane onto the tarmac we had to guess where to go as there were very few ground staff pointing us in the right direction, we could probably have wandered onto the runway and no-one would have noticed! Luckily we spotted a bus and presumed we had to get on that. The only word I can use to describe the airport is chaos!! We spent 20 minutes (I’m honestly not exaggerating) filling in forms with our address, reason for visit plus answering many ridiculous questions whilst listening to a man screaming at security staff about yellow fever certificates. On completion we headed to the desk to get our visas and I kid you not the man didn’t even look at our carefully filled out forms. He just chucked them into a box with about a thousand others!!! Oh well, you live and learn. As we were only staying in Nairobi for one night and it was already 3am we just needed somewhere cheap and cheerful to stay and we’d been recommended a basic hotel near the centre. We hadn’t booked but we’d been told to just bang on the door until the night staff woke up! I swear if we’d done this in most other places in the world we’d be met with grumpy faces and unhelpful staff, but this is Kenya. They couldn’t have been happier to be awoken at 3am and cheerfully checked us in. One of the men also headed out to buy us some water, we’d have gone ourselves but we had no idea where we were and the ladies of the night hanging around outside kept waving at Tom…so we happily let the local man go for us!!
The room was very basic, but certainly wasn’t the worst place we’d stayed on our trip and was perfect for what we needed.

The following morning we were collected from the hotel by a lovely man called Austin who drove us the 2 hour journey to Nakuru. Before leaving the UK we had decided that we’d love to help out with a friend’s charity, Raise the Roof Kenya, at the end of our trip. The charity was set-up back in 2010 when Holly Bantleman visited a rubbish tip in Nakuru where over 250 people had set up camps there and had to rely on the rubbish trucks for food. The stench from rubbish, rotting cow carcasses’ and pig faeces was apparently horrific, yet this was the place that some poor people had to call home. Holly decided she had to help and Raise the Roof Kenya was born. Initially the plan was to provide tin roofing for the people of the rubbish dump and eventually provide a long term solution for them. She managed to do this through donations from the UK, and quickly realised that RTRK would become a long term project. After managing to help more families with things such as school fees and medical bills the ‘Think Big’ project was founded. Holly had noticed that there was a lack of opportunity for the older teenagers in the poor areas so she decided to build a community centre, sports ground and vocational school so people could gain an education and training to go on and live a sustainable future. Seven out of 10 teenagers in the village of Barut, the area she chose to build the centre, had never received a secondary education and many were surviving off a mere non guaranteed income of 30p a day for shovelling sand at the quarry. The thing we admired most about RTRK was the sustainability aspect. The charity wasn’t just there to raise money and help the poor by giving them handouts. The aim was for them to be able to help themselves and prosper, then eventually they won’t need the charity anymore.

Barut is about 20 minutes drive out of Nakuru and Holly kindly found us somewhere to stay in Nakuru for two weeks. Enroute we drove through the beautiful Rift Valley, and passed about 500 donkeys and tons of zebra, it was pretty amazing. Straight away we both felt at home in Kenya. It’s an unbelievably beautiful country and just driving along through the countryside reminded me why we came back to this place.

On arrival in Nakuru we headed to our home for the next 2 weeks. We didn’t really know what to expect as Holly had said we were staying in a flat belonging to her friends Haley and Benji, but we knew nothing about it. Well…it was amazing. A beautiful flat all to ourselves as Benji was only home at weekends and Haley was visiting friends and family in the states. After a trip to the supermarket we spoke to Holly via Skype about things she’d like us to do. She asked us concentrate on the sports facilities, which at present was just an uneven field which she wanted us to level, mark out, source equipment and hopefully if there was time arrange some sort of tournaments/sports day. As we hadn’t yet visited the centre we had no idea what to expect, and to be completely honest, I was pretty apprehensive about the whole project.mid never really done anything like this before and had no idea where to begin. Holly had also mentioned that she’d like us to try and increase participation as the girls especially weren’t always keen to take part in sport. She’d pretty much said that we should take the lead on the project with the help of the staff and the community. We both loved the charity and all that it stood for so failure wasn’t an option!

The following morning we were picked up by Denis, the strawberry seller and driver for the Barut centre. He arrived on his motorbike and we both hopped on the back. Apart from in South East Asia we hadn’t really been on many bikes but as this was the main transportation in Nakuru we quickly realised we’d have to get used to them. The 10 kilometre drive took about half an hour (by the end of our time there it took about 20 minutes, I think Denis was taking it slowly on our first day). The roads were no more than dusty and muddy tracks full of huge pot-holes and free-roaming sheep chickens and cows. It was an eye-opening journey as we passed through some very rural and poor villages on our way to the centre. We heard countless screams of Mzungo (White man) and “how are you” from the children as we drove by. We were constantly waving and shouting Jambo (hello) all the way to Barut, and were met with big smiles and laughter, that’s why I love Kenya.

On arrival at the centre we had a look around and saw the full extent of the task at hand.

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After our tour we wanted to get started so under the guidance of Denis, the security guard Wesley and the Agri-Business teacher Moses we started digging up the plants that were in the way of what would be the football field and moved thousands of stones which were under the soil. We could see straight away that there was a lot to do and we instantly realised that the two weeks we planned on staying weren’t going to be enough and in our minds knew that it would be three weeks at the centre. That still gave us a week at the end to do some sort of safari so we were both happy with the new arrangement.

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The first few days at the centre were really frustrating as we just didn’t know what to do for the best. The field was so uneven that playing football properly on there was near impossible, we had to level it. Moses assured us that the trainees would be keen to help out but the field was huge and after two more days of digging up the bumps and clearing dead grass it became clear that we were making minimal impact, even with 20 trainees helping us.

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As we’d never done anything like this before we had to take the advice of the locals. Luckily by this point Koech, the secretary of the Barut athletics club was on hand to help us out (and soon became a good friend) He thought our options were either to try and get a machine or hire local people to help. Looking at the progress we’d made with 20 trainees we thought a machine would be the best option and Koech got us a reasonable price to hire a Caterpillar road leveller. (which just so happened to be nearby) The only slight problem was it was broken, but assured us it was getting fixed and would turn up the following day. We were starting to realise that nothing happens quickly in Kenya so even though we wanted it to come straight away we agreed to the following day.

We arrived at the centre the next day to the news that the machine would arrive later. We waited, and waited, and waited but no machine turned up. Koech had rung them a few times and his news was always, they’re on their way. He then headed off to find the machine and rang us to say it was on its way. Half an hour later when it hadn’t arrived we spoke to him again and this time his reply was “it’s on the way to town!!” WHAT! Apparently it couldn’t be fixed and had to be taken to town for repairs. Why we weren’t told this hours earlier I’ll never know and we were really down about the whole project by this point. We really wanted to make a big difference to the centre but felt like we weren’t getting anywhere and we’d wasted another day.

We returned back to the flat that night really downbeat. Not only had we lost another day but we still didn’t know whether the machine would turn up the following day. If it didn’t we really had no other options lined up. As we didn’t know the area and to be honest didn’t really know what we were doing it was hard to find machines to help us. It’s not like we could just google ‘field leveller machine, Barut’!
We arrived at the centre to news that the Caterpillar was a no go. Apparently it was now fixed but the owner wanted a ridiculous amount of money it get it back to Barut and then return it to town afterwards. We were pretty much at the end of our tether but thankfully we had a break-through. One of the trainees had seen a tractor on her way into school so she headed off with Denis to try and negotiate for them to come and help…and amazingly it worked. Half an hour later and the field was being dug up by a massive plough!!!

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We were so happy to be making progress and finally felt we were getting somewhere, although I will admit at this point I was slightly concerned. Instead of just levelling the ground this tractor was ploughing it and was going to return to harrow it, which is making the big lumps smaller so we could then rake and flatten by hand. Moses, Koech, Wesley and Denis were certain that this would work and we had to trust their judgement. At that point all I could see was us digging up a grassy field and making it a muddy one!!!

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The drives home from the centre are always interesting and we both really enjoyed them. Driving through the little communities is always interesting and the kids we passed were always so excited to see Mzungos riding past. They loved to shout ‘how are you’ as we sped past and we always made the effort to wave or should back. Their stock reply when we shout back “how are you” was always, “I am fine”. No-one ever says anything but this and it does make me smile every time we hear it. One thing I did see the other day whilst on the bike was three kids playing with their homemade kites which was a piece of string with a dirty plastic bag on the end. They had huge smiles on their faces and were laughing together. It broke my heart a little bit to see this and really hit home how little these people have yet they don’t need much to be happy. I think we could all learn a thing or two from the lovely people of rural Kenya.

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That evening went out to watch Derby play Brighton in the first leg of the Championship play-offs. After traipsing around various bars we thought we were out of luck as it wasn’t meant to be on the main sports channel and we couldn’t find anywhere that screened the smaller channels. Thankfully though luck was on our side and for some reason the schedules had changed and the match was being shown in the sports bar. Plus Derby won 2-1 so all in all it was a very positive day.

Saturday came and with it the second visit of the tractor….I’m certain you can guess what happened!? On arrival at the centre there was no sign of the vehicle and Koech headed off to find out what was happening. When we paid them for the work on Thursday I had a little nagging feeling that we should have withheld the full payment for that day until the job was complete. It turns out I should have listened to my gut feeling! Koech returned with news that the tractor wasn’t coming. Apparently the owner of the farm vehicle had spent the money we paid him on getting drunk rather than buying the piece needed to attach the harrow machine to the tractor. Aaarrggghh. We were really annoyed about this but luckily for us Denis came to the rescue. He sped off on his bike to find us a replacement tractor, this was beginning to be a regular occurrence. We tried not to get too down-heartened and thankfully Denis came up trumps and an hour later we were watching a new and bigger tractor breaking up the massive chunks ready for raking and flattening the following week. The flattening the field process was a huge job but we thought there was no point in doing it half-heatedly. If we were going to do it, we were going to do it properly.

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That evening Preston were playing in the League One play-offs against Rotherham. As it wasn’t deemed important enough in Africa (I can’t understand why) it wasn’t being shown on TV so our only option was to watch it on the internet. As it was bucketing it down with rain I was concerned there would be a power cut at the flat, as that often happened when the weather was bad, so we headed out in the horrific conditions. The first place we went to were having wifi problems so we tried to get it to work for half an hour then gave up, we were 1-0 down at this point. Next place the wifi wouldn’t work either so after doing a lap of the town we headed back to the flat to watch the second half! Thankfully there wasn’t a power cut and we managed to watch the 45 minutes without any interruptions. Plus we got to see Joe Garner’s world-class goal to even the game out, the final score was 1-1 after the first leg.

Sunday was rest day, which was much needed. After a lazy day we headed out to once again watch football and this time it was the last day of Premier League season. It was all a bit of an anti-climax in the end. We were desperate for Liverpool to do it, but it wasn’t to be and Man City won the Premier League. After that it was the second leg of the Championship play-off semi-final which was far more exciting. It was a great game which a Derby won 4-1 (6-2 on aggregate) and coasted through to the final at Wembley. I was just praying that Preston could do the same…(we didn’t, we lost the second leg. That is all I’m going to write on the subject!)

Monday arrived and our lovely friend Denis couldn’t pick us up so he sent someone else instead. We also had to pick up some rakes enroute to the centre and carry them on the bike. The previous week we’d managed to carry 6 machetes, a rake and some garden shears on one journey and it wasn’t too difficult. We’d even transported live chickens with the three of us on the bike. However, trying to hold on for dear life on the most uncomfortable motorbike in the world whist trying not to drop 5 rakes was hard work!!

We made some real progress at the centre that day. All the trainees were really keen to help as they could see the pitch beginning to take shape and were excited about the prospect of a new playing field. We spent the whole day clearing dead grass, breaking up the small pieces and raking them flat. There was still so much to do and it still wasn’t anywhere near flat, but we were getting there! Plus we were getting to know the trainees better which was really important to us. We returned home that evening filthy and exhausted, but happy.

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The next few days followed the same routine. Manual labour in the hot Kenyan sunshine was hard work but we were really enjoying ourselves now. All the trials and tribulations of the first week were a distant memory and we were now making progress every day. One journey to the centre after a particularly rainy evening the night before was one I won’t forget for a while. Denis did well to avoid most of the mud and puddles until we got to a particularly wet section. Before we knew what was happening the bike got stuck and myself and Tom fell off the side! Luckily there was no harm done as we’d been travelling pretty slowly and at least we entertained the locals!!

When we were in South East Asia we were always entertained by the things people carried on their motorbikes from huge china vases to 12 live chickens. Here we were 10 months later and our motorbike comprised of three people, 2 rucksacks, 5kg of potatoes, a bag of rice, a bag of flour, various vegetables a football, a big bike pump and of course another rake!! How things change eh!

The field was really starting to take shape and it was so different to the field that greeted us on our first day. As the trainees had to concentrate on their lessons we managed to hire some local people to help us out. They did in 2 days what would probably have taken me and Tom a week!! They really worked hard and we couldn’t have been more thankful. We also bought the trainees a new football to try out and every spare minute was spent playing footy on their new field, it was great to see. All we needed now was a load of rain and the grass would start to grow back. Again that was something we were slightly concerned about but all the locals assured us that we didn’t need to worry.

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Whilst at the centre we met some of the local athletes. I was chatting to one guy about his training and he told me he runs the 10k in 29minutes! He asked me whether I enjoyed running and suggested we could go for a run together…I politely declined!! I probably run as fast as his walking pace!!

By now we’d done two weeks at the centre and we were both so pleased we’d decided to stay on for another week. The field was as level as we could make it but we still had loads we wanted to do before leaving.
That weekend we decided to head out to watch the FA cup final and little did we know how huge it would be in Nakuru. There were loads of Arsenal fans in the pub so the atmosphere was amazing. We made friends with some locals, Lennox, Larix and Empress. Empress was the only Arsenal fan and her boyfriend Lennox got a ear full every time he reacted to a Hull attack. It was hilarious and it was definitely as entertaining watching her berate him as it was the football. We also had a discussion with them about warm beer! Every time we went to the bar and ordered a drink the barman would ask if we’d like cold beers? I didn’t think much of it at first but I decided to ask our new friends about this. They said that the majority of Kenyans preferred their beer to be at room temperature rather than from the fridge…baffling. Empress, who’d had quite a few warm beers at this point, stopped shouting at her boyfriend for a few minutes to explain to us that cold drinks in general make her feel sick and everything from beer to coca cola has to be warm!!
After the footy we headed to the late-night venue we’d heard so much about, Rafikis. It was actually a lot of fun.

On Sunday we went to visit an absolutely amazing orphanage. Holly had told us all about it and suggested we visited whilst in Nakuru and I’m so pleased we did. The orphanage is called Springs of Hope and it was honestly amazing, a far cry from the horrific orphanage we visited in Oaxaca, Mexico. Driving up to the children’s home was like driving towards a hotel, it looked incredible from the outside. Once inside things were just as nice and it was exactly how an orphanage should be. The kids were unbelievably happy and all the staff were wonderful with them. We met lovely Molly who is the founder of the home which is run on donations and fundraising. Her passion for the project was so visible and the kids adored her. The children were really intrigued about what was in Tom’s bag and when they found out it was a camera they were desperate to play with it. Let’s just say we now have about 50 photos of the TV amongst the 400 odd they took plus over half an hour of videos!!

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Whilst we were there a delivery of unwanted clothes arrived and the youngsters were unbelievably excited. Even so they were so well behaved and waited for their turn to receive some new clothes. They couldn’t stop smiling and laughing about their new articles and immediately modelled them for us.

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Monday and Tuesday were spent at Barut marking out the various pitches and making the sports equipment. After speaking to the trainees and Koech about what the community would want it was decided that we’d mark out a football pitch, netball court and volleyball court. Trying to figure out all the measurements for the football pitch was hard work as there wasn’t room for a full sized pitch but we wanted to make the most of the area we had, we got there in the end though. Koech and Wesley worked so hard to help us complete the project and we were so thankful they were there to help and offer advice. We definitely wouldn’t have succeeded without their help and support.

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It was great to see the project finally coming together but at the same time we felt a bit sad that it was almost over.

I don’t know what it is about Kenya but what I mentioned earlier about everything taking so long is so true. One morning we headed off with Rich, the project manager, to collect a few things in his car. What should have been a 20 minute task ended up taking almost two hours! We met Rich at the sports shop to buy the equipment for the sports field. It should have been open, it wasn’t. Instead we went to the hardware store. Here you have to ask for what you want from one person they give you a receipt then you queue up and pay somewhere else. Then, oh yes it’s not over, you head off and try and find the items you’ve just paid for. Everyone we spoke to sent us to a different person in a different area until finally we got hold of the two items we’d paid for, cement and red oxide. Rich moved his car so we could load the things in. Once loaded he turned the key and the car wouldn’t start and As we were in a loading area we were blocking a huge lorry in. Rich went off to find a mechanic and the lorry driver returned and asked us to move. He didn’t seem to understand that because the car was an automatic it was stuck in park. He tried to push the car anyway, it didn’t move. The lorry then did a 16 point turn to get around us just before Rich returned with said mechanic. After a few minutes of poking around under the bonnet he said he could fix the car for 100bob (66p). We went back to the sports shop, which was now open, and picked up new equipment for the school and headed off in the now fixed car. Just a normal morning in Kenya, now you understand why everything takes so long!!

Wednesday was P.E. day and the first real test of our sports equipment and pitches. We headed to the centre early to make sure everything was ready for the 11am P.E. lesson. As mentioned previously often the girls weren’t that keen to participate, but I was adamant that they’d all take part and more importantly they’d all enjoy themselves. The girls played volleyball first then wanted to play netball so I taught them for about 2 hours and they didn’t want to stop. With a bit of encouragement every single girl played and seemed to love it. The improvements I saw in one session was actually remarkable and I’m certain they’ll continue playing as much as possible once we’ve left. We brought with us loads of photocopies of the rules for both volleyball and netball and I watched all the girls reading through them once we’d finished playing, they really were keen.

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Tom took the boys for football training and they seemed to be having a great time. He structured it well so they warmed up properly and he coached them not to chase the ball around all the time, amongst other things. I think the final score in the match was 9-8 or something ridiculous. Koech managed to play every single sport plus refereed the footy and tried to play two positions at once on the netball court until all the girls shouted at him! He had a massive smile on his face all day, as did Wesley. All in all it was a great day and one we won’t ever forget.

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Our friend and driver Denis invited us around to his house for some food, cooked by his cousin Faith. Before going there Koech wanted to take us to the sand quarry, which we thought was a bit odd but once there we could understand why he wanted us to see it. The conditions were pretty horrific and the poor men who’s job it was to dig out the sand by hand risked their lives every single day for 100-150 Kenyan shillings (60p-£1) The walls of the quarry were so unstable and Koech kept saying how he would never ever do that job. The men there wanted to greet us and after shaking our hands tried to hand us a spade to help them out, we kindly declined. We really saw the harsh reality of trying to make a living in Kenya.

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On the way back to the centre from the quarry we saw loads of school children in the distance and Koech said we should go and greet them as they’d spotted us and had started screaming “Mzungos” and “how are you”. Once over there ever single child wanted to shake our hand, which was made harder by the barbed wire and prickles which separated us from them. They were so cute and really epitomised Kenya for us, the happy children.

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We went to Denis’s house and his cousin made us some amazing food, then we watched one of the strangest films I’ve ever seen in my life. It’s called the Reggae Boys and was a Nigerian masterpiece! Some of the acting was atrocious but it was addictive viewing!

The following day was our last at the centre so we’d arranged a sports day for the trainees. It really was the highlight of our three weeks in Barut. We had a volleyball tournament, football and netball matches, and competitions such as a penalty shoot out and shoot the hoop. The trainees loved it and so did we. It really was lovely to see them as happy as they were now they had new equipment and improved playing surfaces.

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We had a few prizes for the trainees who put in the most effort throughout the day and for the winners of the competitions. We handed them out at the end of the day and they all thanked us for all our hard work and sang us a farewell song. I really felt we’d bonded with the students and the sports day with the new equipment and facilities was the perfect way to end our time at Barut. Every single day we were at the Barut Centre, Mercy, the Head Teacher, came over to chat to me about what we were doing. Her words of thanks and encouragement always spurred me on and really made me realise what a difference we were making. We were both really sad to leave and will never ever forget our time there. I’m so pleased we succeeded in the task which had been set for us but none of it would have been possible without the hard work and efforts of the trainees, the staff at the centre and the local community.

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Saturday was the big day for Tom as Derby were in the Championship play-off final but before that we had to sort out our safari to the Masai Mara. We had tried to arrange it the previous day but trying to pay anyone in Kenya is one of the most frustrating things ever! (Nearly as frustrating as waiting for tractors!) They wanted us to do a bank transfer but if you haven’t got a Kenyan bank account it’s impossible to do, as is taking out enough money to pay them direct. It was such a frustrating morning, but eventually we sorted it and our amazing luxury safari was booked. From five-star lodges to a hot air balloon over the mara, we really were blowing the budget for the final week of our amazing adventure.

Once all that was sorted we headed to see one of the trainees who had invited us round to her house. Because everything at the bank had taken so long we almost didn’t go but I honestly cannot explain how pleased I am that we did. Dorisella and her sister had bought us fizzy drinks and bowls of crisps and snacks and if we hadn’t turned up it would have all gone to waste. In Kenya people like visitors and we were probably the first Mzungos to be in her house. We were there for about 2 hours and before leaving we had to wait for her father to return as he wanted to greet us. The house was a mud hut but it was really homely and Dorisella had worked hard in planting crops and rearing chickens and rabbits to sell. It is traditional in Kenya to offer a gift to deserving guests and the previous day Dorisella had joked that she’d like to give me a hen! Luckily we just got some eggs as I’m not sure a hen in the Masai Mara would have been a good idea!! They also had kittens and asked if we’d like to take one…until we explained that they wouldn’t let us on the plane back to England with a live animal! I’m so pleased we made the effort to go and see her as she was generally excited to have us in her house. When her Dad turned up he desperately wanted us to stay longer and kept offering us food and drink but unfortunately we had to leave as we’d promised Koech we’d go and see him at the athletics stadium.

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There we watched the 3000m walking race, the relay and steeplechase. It was just county qualifiers but it was great to see. Koech said if we’d turned up earlier he’d have entered me in a race!! Thank god we didn’t turn up earlier, everyone would have had a good laugh at the silly Mzungo coming last!!

From there we headed home to get changed before eating some Nyama Choma (BBQ’d meat) and got front row seats for the big game. I won’t dwell too much on this bit but Derby were well and truly robbed! There only looked like one winner and true to form in the play offs, this meant that the team who didn’t deserve it won, QPR were promoted to the Premier League. As a Preston fan I am well accustomed to play off defeats so I really felt for Tom. He dealt with it well though and didn’t let it ruin our evening with our friends. We’d managed to get a group together to watch the footy including Dennis and his cousin Faith, Rich, our project manager and his friend Steven.

Our last day in Nakuru was spent packing up and getting ready for our exciting safari adventure. We both spoke to our parents and they very kindly agreed to donate some money to Raise the Roof Kenya which meant that everything we’d done at the centre from the levelling and the painting of the lines to the football posts and netballs hadn’t cost the charity a penny. The budget that had been put aside for the sports facilities could now be put to good use elsewhere. We were absolutely ecstatic about this, as was Holly, and I can’t thank both our parents enough for their generous contributions.

I could write forever about our experiences but what really hit home for me was how happy everyone was. People walking past the centre just smiled and wanted to say hello. If we stopped what we were doing and chatted to them for a few minutes it made them so happy. The children we drove past just wanted us to wave and notice them, it made their day. Our time in Barut was incredible. It obviously wasn’t all fun and games and at times it was ridiculously hard and really frustrating. Even when we were at our wits end giving up was never an option and I knew deep down we’d succeed eventually. Watching the trainees play on their new playing surfaces with the new equipment on our final day made everything worth while. I am so pleased we made the effort to come to Kenya to help these wonderful people.

If you’d like to read more about the Raise the Roof Kenya or to make a donation please visit the website here

We have tons of photos from Barut, please click here to have a look.

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Now it’s Namibia!

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We said goodbye to our amazing hostel (Amber Tree Lodge) and Cape Town bright and early on Easter Sunday and headed on down to the Nomads office in town with two German guys, Benedict and Lenaurt who were staying in our hostel and were on the same trip. Before we even reached the office we could see the big Overland truck we would be spending a large part of the next 12 days in. As we pulled up we saw this beast was named Marvin so in true Gaye style, “Let’s get it on!”

Our first stop in Marvin was at Table View on the coast North of Cape Town. It was somewhere we’d wanted to go whilst family Eccles were here the previous week but we’d ran out of time. It was a really spectacular view across the Atlantic Ocean back to the city of Cape Town with Table mountain looming in the background.

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Our next stop on our trip was one of our least interesting as we spent two hours in a shopping mall whilst the guides purchased lots of the provisions for the next few days. We bought water, fruit and biltong (dried meat like Jerky just better!). Shopping done we set off to our campsite in the Cederberg Mountains.

We pulled up at a pretty decent looking campsite and there were lots of looks of confusion and terror from the families enjoying their Easter holidays. I assume they thought we were going to cause mayhem and keep them up all night. We then set about putting up our tents for the first time and luckily for us ours was all there and went up perfectly, whereas a few of the other pairs didn’t have enough poles or they didn’t match the tents so alternatives were called for and some poor guy had to bring them out from Cape Town. The tents that Nomads supplied were actually massive and pretty nice to be honest our only concern may have been our sleeping bags. We have excellent ones at home but didn’t want to carry them around the world for 10 months just for this moment, so heavily under the influence of ‘Thrifto’ Eccles I had had to buy the cheapest ones I could find a couple of days previously and had got some for just over a tenner which would allegedly keep us warm if it didn’t drop below 5 degrees Celsius! Only time would tell just how many extra layers we may have to sleep in as the Namib Desert can get cold.

When we did this kind of overland trip from Nairobi to Johannesburg in 2008 we’d had such an amazing time and a lot of that was to do with the incredible group of people we spent a month and a half with. We are still in touch with lots of them and will always have special memories of that trip. So it was always going to be a difficult first day trying to figure out if we were going to have another awesome group or not. To be fair the dynamic of the group couldn’t have been much more different as it was made up nearly entirely of Germans and Dutch. We were in fact the only English people in the group of 23! The good news is that we are so used to travelling and meeting new people that we can get on with anybody from anywhere, so it was great to have some new people to share our experience with.

In the afternoon we went on a little trek in the surrounding hills which was nice enough. The local guide, Skippe, was good although I was a little put off when I saw him pull out a turtle from his bag and hand it round the group. I just prefer to find my wildlife in the wild I guess. The most exciting part of the walk was when he caught a couple of Scorpions and held them on his hands without being stung.

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He also showed us some indigenous paintings on a wall which were approximately 1,500 years old. He explained what each of the three ‘chapters’ meant and it was basically saying how they were happy and were leading a good life here all those years ago. Later that evening we ate a pretty tasty beef stew and shared a few beers whilst getting to know people a bit better. We went to bed that night pretty tired and drifted off quickly using the pillows we’d stolen from the airplane the other week!

It had got a little chilly at night but not too bad, yet. So we were up, decamped, fed and packed by about 7:30 a.m. and prepared for a fairly dull day travelling on the bus heading up north to the Orange River.

The highlight of the journey was when we finally found an off licence that was open and everyone stocked up on beers and wines. When we reached the Orange River campsite we all decided it would a good time to cool off in the river as it had been a long hot ride in the truck. Whilst we were swimming one of our guides, Victor was busy cooking us up some Wors (South African sausage) on the Braai (SA BBQ!) along with veggies and pap (maize like mash potato). It was really good and Ecco and I decided to wash it down with a super strong caipirinha as we still had a bottle of cachaça with us from Brazil.

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The next morning was pretty chilled as some of the group went canoeing on the river. We decided to save a few quid for later in the trip and figured we’d already done some pretty awesome kayaking in Laos and New Zealand. We borded Marvin the truck and crossed the South Africa – Namibia border relatively stress free and carried on to our camp for the night at Fish River Canyon, which apparently is the 2nd largest canyon in the world after that Grand one in the States. We quickly set up our tents for the night, before heading off to the canyon to watch the sunset. It was an amazing place and was quite like the Grand Canyon but perhaps a little less orange. Having been spoilt with sunsets over the last 11 months this one only really fell into the OK category.

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Whilst we’d been doing that our guide, Victor, had been preparing a tasty Spag Bol. The only problem was we didn’t know we were eating here and it was getting a little nippy in shorts and flip flops. It was a quiet night around the campfire and everyone was in bed by 9 pm as we were up at 5 the next morning for another looooong 600 Km drive.

Fortunately we’d avoided the cold of the night by zipping our sleeping bags together and wearing as many clothes as possible. We spent the next 8 hours in the truck stopping only to stock up on the essentials (water, beer and biltong!!). When we got to camp we went for a short trek into a spectacular 60 meter deep canyon which apparently fills up with water when it rains.

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After our chicken curry that Victor had cooked up we all went to the campsite bar as they had a massive TV and we watched the Real v Bayern Munich match. The German guys were not too happy with loosing 1-0 but us and the Dutch didn’t mind Bayern loosing too much.

If the previous day had been early then this morning was ridiculously early. We woke up at 04:45 and were in the truck and away 15 minutes later. Our first stop was to the enormous sand dunes and we began climbing Dune 45 so we would be on its peak for sunrise. These are the biggest sand dunes in the world and walking uphill in fine sand is actually pretty hard as you just sink and slide all over the place and the cross-wind was pretty fierce. The struggle was worth it though as when we reached the top we only had to wait 10 minutes for the sun to poke its head over the distant mountains and dunes. It was really beautiful and worth the early start. When we made it back down we were greeted with a lovely scrambled egg and baked bean breakfast, a great reward!

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After the sand dunes we jumped in the truck and made our way to Dead Vlei, which looked spectacular in the photos I’d seen on the Internet, it looks like burnt trees in a river bed surrounded by sand dunes. Apparently they are formed when the rains fall in the desert and there is a flash flood in a river which runs all the way into a valley of the sand dunes. This water then gets trapped and vegetation begins to grow. In particular there are the camel thorn trees which are amazingly adapted to living in the desert and can grow roots 80 meters deep to find water. Eventually the water dries up and these trees are left to die and dry up in the middle of nowhere. The white flooring comes from the lime that gets washed down in the rain and eventually is left there when the water evaporates and hardens over time. To get there we had to get into a trailer that was pulled five bumpy kilometres through very deep sand by a tractor. When we pulled up our guide, William, said just wander around and when you’ve had enough come back. It was really pretty there and Caroline and I wandered around for an hour or so taking photos of the enormous dunes and tried to find a dead tree to take a picture similar to the ones I’d seen before. It was nice but I walked over to wait for the return tractor feeling pretty disappointed because it wasn’t anywhere as dramatic as I thought it should be. Whilst chatting to a few of the other guys from the group I heard them ask each other if they’d made it to the black trees in the valley. One of the Dutch lads, Tom (good name!), said yes and showed me his amazing photos. Shiiiiiiiiiiiit. Thanks to the lack of guidance from our guide and lack of any signage we’d missed perhaps one of the best photo opportunities on the planet. There was only one thing to do. We turned straight back round and headed over the two distant sand dunes to find this mystical place, it was time to be a little selfish as we weren’t missing out on this! It was a flipping hot power walk and we were out of water as I’d given our last bit to the little birds! As we climbed one last steep dune I saw exactly the place we were looking for and it was incredible. In the middle of the Namib Desert sat approximately fifty dead, dry and blackened trees in a white rock-like floor all surrounded by tangerine and orange ginormous sand dunes under the bluest of skies. It really was a photographer’s paradise and I was a little peed off at not having longer there but was so, so happy that we’d decided to turn back and find it. The photos are stunning and will be right up there with my favourites come the end of this phenomenal year. (Feel free to check out the extra photos in the link at the end of this blog!)

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After lunch we were back in Marvin the truck and headed to our next campsite via an Apple Pie Shop called Solitaire that used to be owned by a giant Scottsman called Moose McGregor. Poor Moose had passed away earlier this year!!! We were all excited about the sweet treat but unfortunately they had no apple pie ready. Our guides were not having a good day!

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Arriving at our campsite was pretty cool that day. We were literally in the middle of the Namib Desert and were camping on a farm. The dunes were a lot greener than you’d expect. Apparently the levels of rainfall have increased dramatically and this has caused the growth of lots of bushes and grasses.

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The guy who owned the farm was an awesome Namibian guy called Boes Man (Bushman). We spent the early evening on a desert drive where he taught us all about the land and the ways of the traditional Namibian bushmen who’d been hunted and killed to extinction by the 1930’s. He told us they were little yellow skinned people never bigger than 5 foot tall and amazing hunters. They used to hide in the undergrowth and could crawl to their prey so quietly that the could shoot a poisoned arrow as close as 5 foot away from a wild antelope without them knowing that they were there or what happened. He taught us about their hunting, food, history, lifestyle and amazing heritage. He even caught a little lizard and pretended to eat it, much to the horror of the females in the audience. He was completely captivating and everyone had a great time listening to his tales.

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On the advice of Bushman about 7 of us decided that tonight was the night to sleep under the stars and not in our tents. Although there was a watering hole which attracts a leopard, in the grasses apparently a few varieties of poisonous snakes and under the rocks there were scorpions he assured us that none of them would come anywhere near us, so seeing as it wasn’t that cold and there were no mosquitos we dragged our mats and sleeping bags out and drifted off to sleep whilst watching shooting stars fly through the most incredibly clear and bright starry sky you are ever likely to see. It was a cool feeling knowing that it doesn’t get much more basic than this and was amazing to wake up to the bluey orange sky just before sunrise.

Days 6 and 7 of our trip were to be spent in Swakopmund, which is the heavily German influenced adrenalin activity centre of Namibia. We decided that we were going to go Sand-boarding as it looked pretty awesome.

We checked into our lodge for the next two nights and were very surprised at quite how nice the rooms were. It was good to be able to sleep in a real bed after 5 nights sleeping on a PE mattress! That night we decided to all go out to a restaurant called Neopolitania. I had Orx (huge Antelope type creature!) steak for my dinner and it was superb. Like an amazingly tender piece of fillet steak. Eccles went for Kudu and was equally impressed. After that half of us headed out to the town’s nightclub and had a great laugh in a pretty strange place!

The Saturday was sand-boarding day and they came to pick us up at 09:30. We were glad the previous night’s Windhoek beers hadn’t caught up with us and we were hangover free. They drove us out to the sand dunes and explained what we’d be up to and kitted us out with helmets, boards and boots. Then we had the boring bit of having to walk up to the top of a massive dune. At the top we were separated into beginners and people who had snowboarded before. As I’ve been a good few times I strapped myself in and just went for it. To be fair it felt pretty similar and was a lot softer to fall over in! My first run was just a feeler and I went nice and slowly. It was nice and steep and probably about 300 meters long. Once at the bottom I had to begin the long task of climbing back to the top of the run again. Caroline had never been snowboarding so went in the beginners group. On my way up I watched her go on her first ever run. She seemed to be going pretty well until speed got the better of her and she had a pretty tasty wipeout. She had bashed her head a bit and was shaken up but being ‘Competitive Jane’ she gathered herself and we walked back up for run number 2. Next time round she was better and had begun to get the hang of how to turn a little bit. By my third time I felt confident enough I wasn’t going to hurt myself so took on the nice big jumping platform. In total I did 3 jumps and landed them all, only to come a cropper 5 seconds later each time because of the amount of speed if picked up! Still I landed the jumps and had a few cool photos to prove it! On Caroline’s last run for a bit she had got much better and was really beginning to enjoy herself. Thank god, she isn’t the best at learning things that require patience and wants to be amazing at everything instantly!! Confidence up and enjoyment levels high we switched to have a couple of goes on the lie down boards. These were sheets of waxed wood where you lie down and ride them like a magic carpet and extreme speeds for about 20 seconds! It was a great laugh and Caroline (Competitive Jane) was loving it and even managed to clock the second fastest speed of the day at 75 Kph. We knew this because a guy at the bottom had a speed gun! The other fun person there was Zac the terrier dog! He was a cool customer and very friendly. The best bit was when he chased his owner all the way down the dune when she went down on a snowboard. They even supplied a free DVD, lunch and beer. We’d had a great day and were really glad we’d chosen to do sand boarding.

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That night the four South Africans of our group had kindly volunteered to cook us all a Brai, which is basically a BBQ. It was a huge task for them as there were 25 of us eating but they did a great job and gave us tons of food including lamb chops, sausages, chicken skewers and lovely salads. Everyone was pretty tired after Friday night’s partying so we all got an earlyish night.

Spitzkoppe was our next destination. I think in German it means pointed mountain. The landscape was pretty dramatic as we approached our campsite for the night. It was a very flat grassy plain with huge orange coloured, bold, round granite mountains rising up out the ground at random points. We spent the afternoon exploring and went to look at some ancient bushman rock paintings. Just before sunset we climbed the huge Rocky Mountain behind our camp and were treated to a really spectacular African sunset as the huge orange fireball descended right between two of the tallest mountains around. After an excellent fish BBQ a few people spent another night sleeping outside their tents and under the stars.

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After Spitzkoppe we spent a bumpy 5 hours driving to spend the day with a local tribe called the Himbas. These are the tribes people you’ll probably think of when people talk about Namibia. The are one of the last traditional tribes left in Namibia. The ladies are painted with a red paint like substance which is a mixture of butter, ash and ochre to protect them from the desert sun. They are all topless, covered in jewelry made from copper and bones and their hair is tied in clay covered dreadlocks with excitingly designed head pieces. We were shown around their village by a lady called Marie and we first saw the local school which helped teach the kids of the village. Lots of us had brought exercise books, pens and rulers for them which they happily took from us. From there we were shown around their village and the kids had great fun hanging off us like human climbing frames and playing. We met a few of the ladies, saw some traditional dancing and looked inside one of their huts. They also showed us how they washed themselves and their clothes in smoke as they weren’t allowed to use water because of traditions and drought. They also had a Holy Fire that the chief had to keep lit constantly. We’ve been on a few of these types of tours so far this year and to be honest this one felt a little contrived and uncomfortable for us. We got a sense that we were just there so we could make donations and buy their crafts at the end. It was a shame really because they were fascinating people who still lived a very traditional way of life, it’s just I think they got the balance wrong between being a money making project and an interactive chance to see traditional ways of life.

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Up next was something we both were very excited about. A trip to Etosha National Park, which meant lots of game drives and wildlife spotting. Etosha means ‘Great White Place’ due to the enormous salty, clay pan that dominates the middle of the 22,000 square kilometre park. We did our game drives in Marvin (our giant truck) which gave us quite an advantage because we were that little bit higher than usual. We were going to stay in two different campsites with in the National Park which therefore gave us plenty of time to see the wildlife whilst driving to them. Not long after entering the park gates we saw our first giraffe and it was reasonably close. This was a few peoples first game drive so at first we stopped lots to take photos of Springboks, Impalas and Zebras. We however were seasoned game drivers nowadays and were holding out for the big cats and elephants!! Of all the trips we’ve done the one animal that has eluded us so far has been the famous solitary Leopard, so that was top of our list for the next two days. An hour or so into our first drive we made our way over to where there were three cars and a truck parked. To our delight there were three female lions just chilling out under a bush not far from the roadside. They’d obviously had a kill fairly recently as their faces were covered in blood. They are such beautiful animals that I could spend all day just watching them and nothing else. Unfortunately we had somewhere to be so after lots of photos we moved on. On the way to our ‘village’ for the night we saw hundreds more Springboks and Zebras and some giraffes.

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Our camp for the night was pretty good but the undoubted highlight was the floodlit waterhole. So after realising watching the Champions League was impossible we chose to spend our evening watching the Discovery Channel unfold right in front of our own eyes. At the waterhole we were really lucky because not long after we’d settled down a huge Rhinoceros came out of the bushes and spent about half an hour walking around and drinking from the hole. It felt so good just to see it doing what it does naturally. Later on we noticed there was a second one approaching and then a little third one came out the bushes close to the first. This however proved to be a mistake as the giant first one all of a sudden charged the little third one. The speed and the thundering noise of this amazing looking animal charging was a sight and sound to behold. That was a real spectacle and an unbelievable thing to witness. We stayed for another couple of hours but nothing came close to that.

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The following day we were up early to try and catch the animals in the first light of the day. The first thing we saw was a beautiful male lion just basking in the sunshine. Unfortunately the next male lion we saw didn’t look so well and was obviously quite old, frail and skinny. I guess that he wouldn’t last too long with the Hyenas around. Coincidentally that was exactly what we saw next. There were two Hyenas about 50 metres from the road and they had the head of an Impala or Hartebeest which they were feeding on. They are such odd creatures, with ugly faces, long front legs and short back ones. This leads to them having such a strange hunchback posture. Their food also meant that there were a couple of Jackals around trying to steal their breakfast. It was such compelling viewing watch the two tiny Jackals getting closer and closer to the Hyena with the food. It basically ended in a stand off with neither moving.

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After that we moved on and we found another three female lions shading themselves under a bush. As we approached one of them got up and crossed the road and started slowly crawling through the long grass. About 600 meters away there were loads of Zebras she had her eyes on. The Zebras came closer and I think spotted her in the undergrowth as after a while she just stood up and turned back to the other two. Even though we’d not see a chase or kill it was still great to see her in hunting mode. Perhaps she was just doing a recce for their dinner that night. We also went to see the expansive salt pan and our guides gave us a nice little talk about some of the animals we’d seen.

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The morning’s game drive was a monster and lasted nearly 6 hours in total. I chose to spend the afternoon just lazing by the nice swimming pool whilst Caroline went on another game drive. The reason I’d not gone in the afternoon was because we were off on a Night Game Drive. This was pretty cool as 7 of our group jumped in an open safari jeep and entered the park in the pitch black with our only light coming from the red headlights and lamp our guide Barnabus used to search out the reflection of animals out in the bush. Our first stop was for a fairly large pack of 6 or 7 Hyenas. Also there were a few Jackals meaning there must be food around somewhere nearby. Our guide turned his jeep to face the undergrowth and revved his engine. On the third attempt a female lion stood up about 100 meters away and dragged off some Zebra carcus deeper into the vegetation. Barnabus then showed us a nice big trail of blood from where the kill must’ve happened the previous night. It was so cool to be able to see all this. Later on in the drive we also got to see a huge pride of female lions and even better a large number of 6 month old cubs who’d been left on their own whilst mum was away hunting. Watching them in the red light of our truck was incredible. It was just like watching a bunch of giant kittens play fighting. They were leaping around, bitting each other’s tails and chasing each other. It felt special to be able to be so close to these wild little cubs. Eventually they began to get a bit inquisitive about our truck so it was time to move on. Unfortunately we didn’t manage to track down a Leopard and the closest we’d got to finding an elephant for Caroline was being able to smell them close by. Still it had been a really great experience and felt different to see the animals at nighttime.

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So that was that. We packed up our tents for the last time on our 12 day Namibia trip and headed out for the last 15 kilometres of the park. Suddenly one of the Dutch guys, Tom, shouted stop an uttered the immortal word, “ELEPHANT!”. There it was in the distance a big male wandering out of the trees and flapping his ears. Caroline had got her wish she must’ve made on one of the many shooting stars we’d seen over the last few days. Just to top it off, at the same time as finding an Elephant, a lion was walking straight down the road in front of us. It came very close before turning off and running into the bushes. What a perfect way to finish our time in Etosha. The Leopard may still be eluding us but we couldn’t have asked to see much more during our two days.

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The final day of the Namibia trip was going to be a fairly lengthy a dull 450 Km drive back down south to the capital, Windhoek.

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Upon reaching Windy it felt completely different to anywhere else we’d been to in the country. It was a really big city compared to all the small towns we’d been through. Our truck dropped us in the centre which confused us a bit as we thought they’d at least give us a lift. Nevertheless they helped get us a taxi and we said goodbye to some of the group but not our last goodbye to everyone as we were meeting up for our Last Supper that night. The Chameleon hostel we were staying at for a couple of nights was great and exactly what we needed after 10 days sleeping in a tent. It was really spacious with loads of areas to just relax and even had a small swimming pool. Before dinner I continued my domination of Eccles in our worldwide pool competition.

That night most of the group met up at a spectacularly massive restaurant called Joe’s Beer House. The menu was fantastic and we shared some Oryx carpaccio to start and for mains ‘Caroline the Brave’ had Zebra, medium rare obviously and I had some Ostrich, Springbok and Kudu. They were all absolutely gorgeous and it was really interesting eating these exotic game steaks. So after trying to split a bill 20 ways we said our final goodbyes to the group and although we had only spent 12 days together we felt quite close to some of them so it was a little sad. We sneaked in a final drink with a lovely South African couple from the group called Keith and Alison as they also we staying in a different hostel to the group. It was a very nice way to finish the evening, only tarnished by a wasted Japanese man who kept trying to steal our women away from us!!

It had been a fantastic 12 day tour with Nomads. Our only slight grievance was with our guides William and Victor. Perhaps we’d been really spoilt back in our 2008 Africa trip with our guides Sammy and Julius who were absolutely amazing, so, so friendly and couldn’t have done more for us. Unfortunately the same couldn’t be said about this year’s guys. Whilst they were really nice guys we just got the feeling they were there for the money and not too much else. William had really let people down with his lack of directions or guidance as to where to find the spectacular tree valley in Dead Vlai, which staggered us because it’s in the top three things to see in Namibia. It would be like going to London and not knowing where Big Ben was. He did apologise for that but I still don’t know how a guy whose been guiding for over 10 years didn’t know their location, leading to lots of our group missing out on one of the most dramatic places I’ve ever seen. We’d also had a disagreement with William about booking a night safari and when it was booked up he basically accused us of not asking the right questions and it was our fault. We didn’t stand for it and defended ourselves staunchly. Every night Victor cooked great and plentiful food for us but then would just sit in the truck or far away from us on his phone and wouldn’t really interact with the group which was a real shame as he was very funny and a nice young lad. William would always complain about being very tired after dinner and would try and get to bed very early on all but two nights. Which was fine but left us wanting a bit more from our guides. The biggest insult was that after the last night’s meal at Joe’s Beer House they just left without even saying goodbye to us. We felt pretty aggrieved and let down as we’d paid lots of money and even tipped them. But don’t get me wrong the 12 days had been beyond fantastic and an awful lot of that was because of William and Victor.

The last day in Namibia was spent just lounging at our fantastic Chameleon Hostel and getting our orange sand covered clothes washed before heading out for a great Indian meal at Garnish just around the corner.

So after missing out on Namibia 6 years ago we were so glad we’d fulfilled our promise to come back one day and see it. What a wonderfully diverse country with so much to see and do. The few minutes in the real Dead Vlai will stay with us for a long time and I adore the photos I got and can’t wait to make them into canvases. The safaris had been great and spying on the animals as they went about their business at night time was very special. We’d met some great people from all around the world on the trip and am sure they went on to have a great time in Botswana and Zambia.

That just leaves me to say a big thank you to Namibia and its people for not only living up to our expectations but exceeding them!

Next it’s time to say Jambo to Kenya.

There are an extra-ordinary amount of photos from one of the most photogenic countries we’ve been to. If you want to see more then please click here…….

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Tommy and Caroline ‘The Return!’ is getting scarily close. See you soon.

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¡Bom Día Brazil!

Early in the morning it was time to say goodbye to my brother after a wicked 11 days together where we had been able to share a tiny slice of this travelling life we had become accustomed to with another person close to us. We’d done a lot and had some great laughs along the way so it was a little sad to wave him off in the taxi.

Later on we set off to the bus station in a taxi as the heavens opened. We were destined for the adventure of crossing the border from Argentina to Brazil for the 2nd time in two days. However, this time we caught the local bus as opposed to a luxury tourist bus. The fun part was that this bus only waited for us on the exit side of the Argentinian boarder and left us to fend for ourselves at the Brazil entry immigration. It was actually relatively easy and we waived down the next bus to Foz de Iguaçu and got to the local city terminal before having to to take another bus to the International terminal. Today was going to be very bus orientated. At the terminal we found a bus going to Rio and went to get our first taste of Brazilian food from the bus station restaurant. It was at that point when I couldn’t understand a word of the menu that I realised my A-Level Spanish was going to be of little use in this Portuguese speaking county. We resorted to the old favourite method of pointing at pictures, seeing what other people had and picking things that had Frango (chicken) in them!

The guy who sold us the ticket said it was a 17 hour bus ride, in the end it took us 22 hours, which included changing buses at Midnight and numerous boardings by some well armed police officers. The highlight of the trip was the stop for dinner which involved the best buffet you can imagine. A few more buses later and after leaving some 26 hours earlier we had arrived in our little bit of paradise in the Island of Florianopolis, off the East coast of Brazil.

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We had chosen a hostel called Submarino and it had a lovely homely feel to it and more importantly it had an amazing little Dachshund (sausage dog) called Jaquiera, who I adored as she was really affectionate. She only had really little legs so had to take a running jump to get up on the bench next to you to get her belly scratched. We spent 5 nights here and felt very much at home lazing around on the beaches of Barra and Mole which were gorgeous.

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On our first night we enjoyed a lovely Sunset drink at a little bar called Bools and Beers, it was our first taste of Caprihinia, ‘THE’ cocktail of Brazil made of Caçhaca (rum like sugar cane drink), lime and sugar. It was lovely, especially when mixed with fresh passion fruit. There was also a small music festival in town which made the town and roads much busier than normal. It wasn’t really our cup of tea as there was lots of strange Brazilian soft rock. Personally, for me at least, the real highlight of our time in Florianopolis and maybe the whole trip was was watching Derby destroy Forest 5-0, I managed to watch the whole thing on my iPad over breakfast and even won a couple of quid on Bryson scoring first.

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We tried our best to have a Saturday night out but failed as it was pretty quiet, but we did discover the ridiculous bar system that seemed to involve way too much people and paper. It starts with the door guy giving you each a piece of paper, you then place you order with a waiter, who then brings your drink and marks it down on your own individual cards and then when you are done you have to find the Cashier in the dark corner of the room, who then gives you another piece of paper to say you’ve paid and you’re allowed to leave. Finally, you give this piece of paper back to the door guy and leave. I think the English system of just going to the bar and ordering a beer works just fine.

Our next stop was one we’d both been excited about since the very start of this trip. We were heading to Rio de Janeiro. We arrived at 7 am and had to wait for our room for a bit so spent the rest of the day wandering around Ipenema and it’s beautiful streets and lazing on the stunning beach, dreaming of a time when we don’t have to live on a strict(-ish) budget. In the afternoon we went to buy our tickets for the footy from the old Fluminese stadium in the most difficult way imaginable.

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Fortunately for us the guy from the hostel gave us a lift and helped us out. It seemed he asked three or four different people who worked there whether they were selling tickets or not, and nobody seemed to know. So he lead us to a practically invisible, small window where a hand emerged asked for a few Real and handed us two tickets to the Fluminese v Vasco de Gama game at the Maracaña the next day.

When you think of Rio you immediately think of the iconic Christ the Redeemer statue that overlooks Sugar Loaf Mountain and the city below. So we made our own pilgrimage up the mountain by taking the train to the top. The weather all day had been beautiful however when we when we got off the train we were greeted with a Jesus statue very hidden amongst the clouds. The Brazilians say that Christ uses the times he’s hidden to rest his arms from the stretched out position, when nobody can see him. We sat down and tucked into our packed lunch in one of the most popular and famous destinations in the World waiting for Our Lord to say hello. Eventually the cloud did clear and we got some great photos of the statue and the incredible views of the enormous city that is Rio.

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We even got a glimpse of the Maracaña Stadium where we would be watching the footy that evening. It’s probably the most famous stadium in the world, it’s where Pele scored his 1000th goal, played his last game for Brazil, it’s had crowds of over 200,000, it saw Uruguay ruin Brazil’s dream of winning the World Cup in their own country when they beat them in the final in 1956, it’s where John Barnes scored a Brazilian-esq wonder solo goal and also it’s the stadium that will host the World Cup Final this July. So that evening we headed off to the North of the city on the train with much anticipation of a great evening of the beautiful game. We didn’t see any real trouble, which apparently there can be at the bigger derby (c’mon Derby!) matches. The staff where obviously practising for the World Cup and were amazingly helpful in showing us where to go. We had a couple of beers in the bar opposite the ground and failed to blend in with the locals. Before we went in we went around the front of the stadium where there was an old guy doing incredible kick ups with tennis balls and marbles. He must’ve been over 60 and had more skills than anyone I’ve ever seen. The highlight was him doing marble keepie-ups, then kicking it into his mouth and swallowing it before coughing it back up and carrying on the keepie-ups. Inside it was an amazing stadium and will be great when it’s full for a Brazil match but unfortunately only about 12,000 were there that night, which makes the 76,000 seater stadium seem pretty empty. We were allowed to sit wherever we wanted so went and sat right amongst the Fluminese drummers which was great, they had such amazing songs and rhythms. We spent the first 20 minutes just looking around at the stadium and the crowd before remembering we were at a footy match! The game finished 1-1 with a goal from the local hero Fred. It was a pretty good standard, much better than the Mexico and Argentina matches we went to and there was of course a bit of a scrap (on the pitch) which led to one of the Fluminese players being sent off.

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The following day we spent on the glorious Ipanema beach which is amazingly long and clean. Whilst Eccles lounged and got even browner I went to the best beach gym ever which was at one end among the rocks. It was just a free gym where the weights are just metal bars with concrete blocks and cement filled paint cans, and lots of pull up bars. You couldn’t ask for a much better view whilst working out.

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That night we had read about a place called Lapa that as famous for its Friday night street parties under the big arches. Sure enough when got off the bus the big town square was full of loads of street stalls all selling booze and food. The guys working there made amazing caprinhas and my first drink of the evening was a lethally alcoholic peach caprinha smoothie. There was a group of about 50 people making a beautiful rythym with all sorts of drums, rattles and maracas, they were then surrounded by loads of people dancing to the world famous Brazilian Samba beats. It was a captivating place and I’m insanely jealous (as jealous as I’m allowed to be after this year!) of anyone going out to Brazil during the World Cup. After a bit we could hear some other drums coming from over the road and wandered over to see what all the noise was about. Outside what looked like two garage doors were proper drum groups being lead by a conductor making the first part of the night seem amateur. There were all sorts of drums there but lots of the huge drums you sometimes see at the football and even the little ladies were holding them and playing insane rhythms whilst dancing and singing. It was such fantastic show for free made only better when the garage door shutters rolled up and the drum groups slide back into the bars that lay behind without missing a beat. Tonight was a good night. After visiting a few more bars and nightclubs we headed to a club called Scenarium, that Caroline had been told about. It was pretty huge and inside was fascinating, it was more like an antiques shop crossed with a museum as there were trinkets, displays and even stage coaches everywhere. To top it all off there was a huge dance floor downstairs where some very organised and talented dancing was going down whilst listening to the live Samba band. We decided it was best to not show off our lack of rhythm and just watched from the balcony upstairs!

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The next day we tried to avoid the caprinha hangovers down the beach and stayed in Ipanema realising that it didn’t matter how many more Caprihnas we drank, they weren’t going to have the same effect as the previous night.

One of the popular tourist destinations in Rio is the Escadaria do Convento in Santa Tereza. Odd as it may sound its a staircase and has featured in a few music videos, most notably ‘Beautiful by Snoop Dogg’. However, it’s no ordinary staircase anymore as an artist called Selarón, who used to live in one of the houses on the staircase made it his life’s mission to decorate all of the stairs (about 300 meters worth) with beautifully coloured tiles. Apparently, when he started in 1990, he used to work on them everyday trying to finish tiling the all the stairs in the colours of the Brazilian flag. After 7 years, when he’d nearly finished, he discovered a place that sold imported old European tiles and fell in love with them. He brought all he could and then preceded to change and replace the tiles constantly so the design would be constantly evolving and never be the same. He did this as a way of showing the beauty of where he lived and a personal tribute to Brazil and it’s people. He also said that anyone could send him a tile and he would put it up amongst all the other tiles there, which lead to a fascinating mixture of all sorts of tiles ranging from football crests, flags, town names (lots of English ones) and even one that marked a couple from Oxford’s Wedding Day. Unfortunately the guy had been found dead on the staircase a couple of months previous and they believed it was a suicide as he’d been threatened by local gangs but there were also rumours he may have fallen out with the government about taxes or something. It was a shame because it would’ve been great to meet the guy who’d made a very unique and beautifully enormous piece of ever changing art.

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After the staircase and a sizeable volume of pointless walking we went to watch the sunset from Sugar Loaf Mountain. After two pretty large cable car rides we reached the top and the views of the city at dusk were spectacular but Rio really begun to come to life as the sky went dark and the lights were turned on. From up there you could see the long arch of Copacobana beach, downtown, the harbour and of course Christ the Redeemer, who looked like he was just floating when he was lit up in the night’s sky. It was a great way to see the city.

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On the Monday we decided to go on a favela tour of Rocinha, which is the biggest favela in South America. Favelas are towns where the less well off people live and and are called shanty towns or slums in other countries. They are the places which are always portrayed as riddled with drugs and crimes and definite no go areas for tourists, where houses are built on top of each other in a way that is more about survival than style. We couldn’t decide if we wanted to do a tour or not as we didn’t want it to be one of those awkward place where you go to look at people and their lives like it’s a sort of zoo or something. Eventually after chatting to people in our hostel and getting the Ecco research machine on it we decided it was a good thing to see as it perhaps was how the true people of Rio (Cariocas) live as one third of of its population live in favelas. We picked a guy called Zezeniho and his company because he had love for Rocinha, had lived there and more importantly gave something back to the community with some of the money he made for the tours. He had now set up a DJ school in his flat where the young people of the area could come and use all his equipment to learn how to DJ for free. Our guide for the day was called Dembore and was a cool guy who DJ’d around the area too. It was fascinating seeing how they squeeze so many homes into such a tight space and how narrow and steep the alleyways were. It certainly didn’t feel at all scary and Dembore was really great at explaining how people live their everyday lives. The first thing he did when we got here was took us up a huge hill so we could get a view out over Rio and the whole Favela. It was very impressive how the houses just fitted nicely into the bowl shaped hill and it was absolutely enormous. We asked how dangerous it really was and he said we had nothing to worry about as the last thing that anyone wants to do in the neighbourhood is to commit any crimes that would get a visit from the police. This seemed to be where the problems arose as the police had a really bad reputation of using too much force and violence and would often shoot innocent people or point guns at people when they’d done nothing wrong. The people were left with a choice of having the favelas run by drug bosses which meant they were never bothered or by having the over threatening and forceful police on every corner, of course they preferred the first option. It was compelling to meet the guy who runs it Zezeniho when we went to his flat where the Dj centre was. His arms and legs were covered with tattoos depicting the favela of Rochina and his passion for his home town was very clear and very amicable. He was a great bloke and had seen a way to make people understand that his home favela wasn’t anything like the media portray whilst at the same time he was able to help the next generation of kids in his community. He also had three cats in his flat which enjoyed destroying Caroline’s rucksack. We had certainly been to much poorer places on our trip so far, it’s just the gulf between the luxury areas of mansions and hotels of Ipanema and Leblon and the narrow alleyways of the favela are huge. The people are very proud of where they live and will often chose to stay living there even if they have enough money to move away. To be fair it has everything you could imagine, schools, hotels, hundreds of hairdressers, coffee shops, supermarkets and even 5 different sushi restaurants. It had been a good day and we both came away feeling enlightened and glad we’d gone to see the real Rio.

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We spent a day at the world famous Copacobana beach. It was beyond enormous and quite spectacular with Sugar Loaf Mountain in the background. However, we didn’t like it as much as Ipanema. It just didn’t seem as clean and perhaps a little more touristy. It was great to finally get to this iconic location and just people watch and admire the foot volleyball that was going on not too far away.

Unfortunately for us our flight our of Brazil to Africa was out of São Paulo so we eventually had to call time on our magnificent stay in Rio. We’ve been to many cities along the way and I think we both agreed that Rio was perhaps right up at the top of all of them. To be fair though we had got the São Paulo to Johannesburg flight for a ridiculous £230 so we certainly weren’t about to change it. Everyone we’d spoken to said that São Paulo was enormous and yet there wasn’t an awful lot to do so we weren’t highly excited to be there after a relatively short bus journey. We spent our first day walking miles to the Havianna Flagship store so Ecco could buy a genuine pair of the Brazilian flip flops. When we got there after an hour and a bit of sweaty walking we were greeted with a building site as they were currently having a makeover! So we wandered the streets around there which were well out of our price range nowadays. In the afternoon we walked further still to go and see a bizarre little area called Batman Alley. This was a tiny group of narrow alleyways where graffiti was not only allowed but also encouraged. The result was some of the most stunning artwork I’ve ever seen. There were huge murals on every available bit of wall. Our final act of the day was to go to a pretty spectacular Japanese Sushi restaurant for an evening of eat as much as you can. The fish was gorgeous and we ate and ate until we could no more.

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The day we left I managed to sneak into Hanger 193 CrossFit which was a a great little place with some really welcoming people. I managed to hold my own and left with yet another t-shirt and feeling ready for our flight.

Brazil had been a place we’d both looked forward to since the start and it had really lived up to its reputation and exceeded our expectations. What a great place and although it’s had its critics about construction and planning the world is in for a treat in June when the World Cup begins.

Lots of extra photos beyond this blog. If you want to see them then click here.

We only have one continent left but it’s an amazing one. Next stop AFRICA!

See you soon,

T & C

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Feeling Bueno in Buenos Aires

We were really looking forward to exploring other parts of Argentina. So far we’d only really seen the Patagonian parts, which were unbelievably impressive, but I personally couldn’t wait to visit Buenos Aires. Everyone we’d met so far on the trip had nothing but good things to say about it so we were both really excited. Plus, Will, Tom’s brother was coming to join us for 11 days so all in all, excitement levels were at an all time high.

Will had found us a lovely little B+B in Palermo Soho, a trendy neighborhood of Buenos Aires. Amazingly we all managed to arrive at exactly the same time from separate airports and there was much hugging and screeching going on on the pavement outside the B+B! The very kind owner had bought us some sushi and greeted us with wine and beer, if first impressions were anything to go by we were in for a great time. After a bit of a sit down and catch up we decided to head out for a few drinks. Our new best friend David, the B+B owner, insisted on guiding us around the local area. He pointed out good watering holes and the pubs with the cheapest beer. It almost felt like a little village within the city itself and reminded me a bit of the area we’d stayed in in Santiago, we all instantly loved it.

The following day we headed out to change some money. This may seem like a bit of an odd thing to write about, but bear with me. Basically the official exchange rate from American dollars to pesos whilst we were there was around 7 pesos to the dollar. However, if you go and change it on the ‘black market’ you can get rates of up to 11 pesos per dollar, which makes everything much cheaper. In 2001 the annual inflation levels in Argentina were really high but the official exchange rate in relation to the dollar didn’t devalue quickly enough and therefore made traveling to Argentina really expensive. After 2011 restrictions were put in place on the amount of dollars Argentine citizens could buy for savings, and as a result the black market for American dollars picked up. Travelers to Argentina with US dollars (which Will kindly brought out for us) can use the black market ‘blue rate’ to get more pesos for their dollars, clear as mud! (I’ve tried to explain this the best I can, in reality I’m still confused!)

Next stop was La Recoleta Cemetery. We really were living the high life, an exchange shop in the morning and a cemetery in the afternoon, but this was no ordinary graveyard. It contained graves of notable people including Eva Peron (Evita) and former presidents of Argentina. Instead of being a traditional graveyard with small headstones this was streets full of tombs and sculptures with over 6,400 mausoleums. It was absolutely amazing and like nowhere else I’ve ever visited. It didn’t feel at all spooky or eerie, it was just beautiful.

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Eva Peron’s grave was definitely the most popular and there were loads of flowers decorating her resting place. I felt a bit sorry for some of the neglected tombs and graves though, some of them clearly hadn’t been looked after for years. It made me sad to see them with smashed glass windows and overgrown weeds.

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Whilst in Argentina we desperately wanted to go and see a football match, and preferably Boca Juniors. Unfortunately for us Boca weren’t playing at home whilst we were in the capital city so we instead settled for River Plate v Arsenal (Argentinian Arsenal, not the gunners). Buying football tickets in Argentina isn’t as straightforward as it should be. To get tickets ourselves we had to be members of the club or else buy them the day before, not on match day. As we’d only arrived late the night before there was no way of doing that so we had to pay over the odds and go with a ‘tour’. This meant someone chaperoned us from our B+B to our seats and back again. I guess for some people who weren’t used to the atmosphere of a live match this may have been necessary, but we all felt there was way too much handholding and we’d have been perfectly fine making our own way there. Don’t get me wrong, it was a great experience and the atmosphere inside the stadium was amazing. The fans just didn’t stop singing and we all particularly enjoyed the crowd on the other side of the stadium being led out by a huge brass band! It was such a great experience, even if the only goal we saw was a dodgy penalty (River Plate 1-0 Arsenal)

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After spending the previous day in a graveyard and currency exchange place we decided to wander around a different part of the city and headed to San Telmo. San Telmo is the oldest barrio (neighbourhood) in Buenos Aires and wandering around there was almost like going back in time. The cobbled streets were lined with beautiful old buildings and it really was the perfect place just to wander around. Even Tom seemed to like it, and he hates pointless walking! As beautiful and amazing as the city is one thing they have got drastically wrong is their mapping system. For some reason, known only to the person who supplies the tourist maps, the top of the map isn’t always north! The small map we were using had the northern suburbs of the city on the right of the map whereas the big ones dotted around the city were a different way round (still not with the top being north I hasten to add!) Now this may not seem like much of a problem, but trust me, when you are trying to wander around an unknown city being able to compare your map with the umpteen other maps dotted around the place is pretty crucial. It’s safe to say we got a little lost. It didn’t matter though as it was nice to get a feel for the city by wandering around the streets.

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That evening we planned to meet up with a couple we’d met on the W trek, Bene and Mitch, and go to a drumming show. A friend of theirs told them about this drumming group called La Bomba de Tiempo that played every Monday night at the Konex Theatre. It sounded intriguing so we all decided to go. Well, it was amazing. After having a beer in the queue outside we headed in and the atmosphere was eclectic. The drumming started off quite slowly and then steadily built up throughout the evening and the finale was mind-blowing. If you ever find yourselves in Buenos Aires on a Monday night then make sure you head to the Konex. Plus anywhere that sells a litre of beer for only 35 pesos (£2.60) is a great place in my book!!

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We were all on a high from the show so we decided to try out one of the clubs nearby. The place was random to say the least! To be completely honest, I can’t actually remember much about it, probably something to do with the cheap beer, but I do remember a music video with a weird hamster being on the big screen and making Tom’s hair look as stupid as possible, it was a fun night!

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For our final day in Buenos Aires we decided to head to La Boca, a barrio where many of the houses and shops are painted bright colours. It is also famously the home of football team Boca Juniors who play their games at La Bombobera (The chocolate box in Spanish) We knew that it was going to be pretty touristy but we all wanted to visit the footy stadium and also see the famous Caminito street.

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After a wander up and down colourful Caminitio we headed to the stadium and decided to do the stadium tour along with the museum. As there were no matches on there whilst we were in town we at least wanted to experience the interior, and we weren’t disappointed. I only wish we could have been there for a match as I can only imagine how deafening the atmosphere would be.

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Our guide explained that the terraces we stood on at one point was directly above the away changing rooms so the home fans jumped up and down constantly before kick-off and at half time to make things loud and uncomfortable for the traveling players! We saw Diego Maradonna’s executive box, which the staff at the stadium weren’t allowed to enter without his permission! It was great, and we were so glad we opted for the full tour.

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As it was rush hour when we decided to leave La Boca we thought we’d just get the bus into town and then get the subway home as the traffic in an evening was a nightmare. However, when the bus turned up, it was the same number bus as the one we got on the way there so we decided to play it by ear and if the traffic was bad we’d jump off early, and if not we’d stay on…what a bad decision that turned out to be!

We had checked with the driver that he was going past the cathedral (where we knew we could get the subway home) and he confirmed that he was. Unfortunately for us the roads were pretty clear so we decided to stay on the bus all the way home and didn’t get off at the cathedral. We did think it was a little strange that loads of people kept getting on the bus speaking to the driver and then promptly getting off. At one point someone from the bus company knocked on the bus window and asked if we should have got off by now, but we told him we’d decided to stay on. We just thought maybe we hadn’t paid enough bus fare or the driver was being helpful and making sure we didn’t get lost…how wrong we were! Suddenly, the bus made a sharp turn to the right and before we knew what was happening we were on the motorway heading out of town…aah. I asked the man next to me where we were going and his response was “the countryside” ssshhiitttt! After a conversation with the helpful man who spoke English it turned out that the bus was the same number bus as the one we traveled on earlier, but this one had a little sign at the front which meant it went to the outer suburbs of Buenos Aires and not Palermo! Why it couldn’t have had a different number I’ll never know? He also informed us that we wouldn’t be able to get off for another half an hour at least, depending on the traffic! It would have been ok if we hadn’t had plans for the evening but we’d booked a table at this famous steak restaurant and if you were more than three minutes late they gave your table away! Tom was stressing, probably because he was scared we were going to miss out on food, whilst myself and Will found the whole situation pretty amusing!! Thankfully for us luck was on our side and the roads were clear. We hopped off the bus as soon as we could and decided that we shouldn’t risk another bus journey and decided to get a taxi back…it was all highly amusing!!

The restaurant we’d booked for that evening was called La Cabrera and we’d heard nothing but good things about it from fellow travelers. Bene and Mitch were also joining us as they also wanted to try this famous restaurant. I wish I could write that it was the best meal we’d ever had and it was worthy of all the hype but unfortunately it wasn’t as good as it should have been. The service was ridiculously slow, and both mine and Will’s steaks were past well done when we’d asked for medium rare and rare. To be fair when my steak returned the second time it was amazing, and one of the best I’ve ever had. Tom said his was average and we were just a bit disappointed that the big meal we’d all been looking forward to failed to deliver, oh well. The wine was nice though!!

The next stop on our Argentinean adventure was Mendoza and the best way to get there was the overnight bus. Unlike Will we were used to these long-haul buses but the one’s in Argentina were a cut above the rest. We had leather reclining seats and a waiter who brought us food and drink, including wine! It was honestly like travelling business class on a flight (not that I ever have!) We arrived in Mendoza fully refreshed after a lovely night’s sleep. I made sure Will was aware that this was by far and away the best bus we’d been on on the trip so far and our stories of mouldy cramped rave buses with flashing disco lights and no air-conditioning weren’t made up!

Mendoza is a city on the eastern side of the Andes. There isn’t that much to see in the city itself but the surrounding areas are beautiful and it is famous for it’s wine production. On arrival we booked a trip for the following day which ventured into the surrounding picturesque areas before we headed off to explore the city. It was never going to be as architecturally beautiful as Buenos Aires but the city wasn’t the reason we’d headed over to this part of Argentina. It was pleasant enough and after a wander around the park we decided to head back to the hostel for an early night.

The next day our tour visited some beautiful scenery, even if our guide wasn’t the best! We’d booked a tour in both English and Spanish so we knew what we were looking at etc. The problem was our guide started off doing full translations of both but as the day wore on the descriptions in spanish were about 10 times as long as the English ones! He did amuse us with his constant question of “did you like it?” though. Our tour included the beautiful Potrerillos dam and we were constantly surrounded by amazing views of the Andes.

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We also did a mini-trek to see amazing views of Aconcagua, the highest mountain in the Americas, stunning.

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We weren’t sure whether we’d get food or not so in true backpacker style we brought a packed lunch and had to sit in a derelict building eating our butties whilst everyone else tucked in to a nice warm meal inside, well we couldn’t waste food! It did lead to some amusing pictures with the camera timer and a lovely photo of Will which Tom kindly send to his mum for Mother’s Day!!

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After our food we headed to what our guide had described on many occasions as ‘the highlight of our trip’, the Puente del Inca (inca’s bridge). Scientists aren’t certain how the bridge was originally formed but they think historically snow and ice formed a bridge across the river and the sulphurous water eventually built up and once the ice melted the sulphur remained and therefore formed the bridge that can be seen today, something like that anyway!!

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I must admit it was impressive, and our guide clearly loved it!!

That evening we decided to go out for some more wine and meat, well we were in Argentina!

The next day it was wine tour day and like our wine tour in New Zealand we decided that the best way to travel was by bike! We headed out to Mr Hugo’s bike rentals in a nearby village near many of the vineyards and set off on our trip. Tom managed to get a puncture within the first 20 minutes but luckily Mr Hugo was only a phone call away and quickly arrived with a replacement bike. Our first port of call was an olive oil, liqueur and chocolate factory which was amazing.

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After sampling everything they had to offer we continued on to a few more vineyards and sampled some local wines. I thought we’d be having nothing but red wine but one of our favourites was actually a sparkling Chardonnay, and I usually hate Chardonnay. We even bought a few bottles and headed on. It was a lovely day, the sun was shining and scenery was stunning. Luckily we were heading down a quieter road when I thought it would be a good idea to race Tom! It turned out not to be one of my better ideas and I can only thank my lucky stars that we weren’t on the main road. Whilst trying to overtake him I went flying off my bike and landed in a heap on the floor! I was more concerned about the bottle of fizzy wine which was in my bike basket, but luckily that came away unscathed, which is more than I can say for me. I had scraped all down my leg, my elbow was starting to swell, I had pins and needles in my hand for ages and the worlds biggest bruise on my thigh. All in all though, it could have been a lot worse!! Not wanting to miss out on anything we still managed to fit in a visit to a brewery before calling it a day!

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Our final destination before Will left was a trip to the incredible Iguazu falls. I’d managed to find us a lovely bungalow to stay in which was a little bit out of town but perfect for the 3 of us. We’d read that if time allowed definitely visit both the Argentinian side and the Brazilian side, so that was the plan.

We decided to do the Argentinian side first as we knew this would be the longer of the two days, and we weren’t disappointed. The waterfalls were absolutely stunning, I can see why they were one of the new seven wonders of the world, the pictures don’t so them justice at all.

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We decided to leave the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s throat) fall until last as this was supposedly the ‘highlight of the trip’ so instead headed to the dock and onto the boat which went close to the falls. Everyone said that boat was worth doing but at first it didn’t seem to get very close to the falls at all (I later worked out this was for photos before the real soaking began!) After a nice pootle round camera’s went away and the real fun began. The boat went whizzing towards the falls and only when you thought you were going to go completely under did it change direction. It was so much fun and like a natural water ride you find at theme parks! It’s safe to say we were absolutely drenched when we got off the boat!

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After eating our sandwiches we explored the little island in the middle of the falls, San Martin, which not only offered great views, but was also full of wildlife.

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It was then that we decided to hop onto the little train and go to Devil’s throat, we weren’t diappointed that we’d left it until the end. It was truly spectacular, especially when the sun shone through it to create beautiful rainbows.

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That evening we decided to head out for our last meal together and found a great little traditional restaurant and ate some more amazing meat.

The Brazillian side of the falls was comletely different to the Argentinian side and I’m really pleased we made the effort to do both. Weirdly we didn’t have to stamp in to Brazil, so technically we could have gone missing in Brazil and no-one would ever know, but anyway…I think the views of the falls speak for themselves

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The coatis, racoon like creatures were a bit more of a pest on the Brazillian side. We saw one eat a girl’s cheeseburger and try and eat someone else’s ice-cream…although it was amusing watching one climb out of a bin!

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Then that was it for our Argentinian adventure. We had such a great time with Will and managed to see so much in short amount of time. Argentina was such a fantastic country, from glaciers and penguins to mighty waterfalls and stunning architecture it’s definitely a country we’ll never forget.

To see some more photos please click here.

The W (for WOW!) Trek

Torres Del Paine

The next thing on our fairly packed agenda was to head back into Chile to a small town called Puerto Natales which is well known for being the gateway to Southern Patagonia and an amazing national park named Torres Del Paine. We had decided we needed to challenge ourselves even further than we have done in the last couple of months and were going to take on a 5 day 4 night trek over 67 Km of pretty rugged, mountainous terrain with hopefully a dramatic last day sighting of the three rocky Mountain towers (Torres). This is know as the ‘W Trek’, due to the shape and direction of the walk.

W Trek route

We spent the first night in a fairly basic hostel but the second night we moved to a well renowned hostel named Erratic Rock. It has a great reputation, mostly because at 3 pm everyday they hold a free information talk for people wishing to visit the national park and undertake either the W trek or the whole circuit (the O trek which takes more like 10 days). The Chilean guy who have the talk was superb and gave everyone (about 30 people) in the room a great idea of what to expect and what to bring. This was going to be a pretty full on trek by our normal standards as we were going to be pretty much self sustained for the whole trip meaning we had to bring and cook all our food on a tiny camping stove, carry our tent, sleeping bags and clothes for all types of weather all in our world famous Two Bags!! So we spent all of the rest of Wednesday buying and packing as much food as we could and then thinking about what clothes we might need. By the time our bags were zipped up tight they were both pretty fit to bursting point and must’ve weighed nearly 15kg’s each which wasn’t ideal considering we’d be lugging them up and down steep mountains for up to 7 hours a day. However, as I don’t like being hungry I demanded we took all the food we could carry!

We awoke early on Thursday, wolfed down a hearty breakfast and set off up the road to the station and caught the bus to Torres Del Paine. After a couple of bumpy hours and a sneaky half an hours catermeran cruise over the lake we arrived at our starting point. Unfortunately for us it also started to throw it down, so we had to have a quick wardrobe change into more waterproof clothing and attempted to cover up our big rucksacks as best we could. Its fair to say that Caroline handled the testing starting conditions a lot better than me, as I struggled to see the point of climbing up these steep hills with a heavy backpacking in the cold, driving rain. Whereas, Eccles thought it was pretty and that a bit of rain wasn’t anything to worry about! Instead I switched myself into Grumpy Beast mode and got on with it setting a decent pace until eventually the rain stopped and we were greeted to some sunshine and some fantastic views over the mountain ranges, iceberg lakes and even the astonishing Grey Glacier (our second glacier of the week!). Once we weren’t cold anymore and we could see the beautiful views I started to understand why we were here, it was pretty spectacular and felt nice to be in the middle of nowhere, at the bottom of our planet!! Our first walk was 10.5 km, which was a pretty decent way to warm up for the next few days. Even though distance wasn’t enormous it was still pretty tough as our backpacks felt heavy and some of the hill climbs were pretty steep in both directions. We made it to our campsite in the Grey Refugio in about 4 and a half hours, which is not bad with food and water breaks every hour! The best bit was we didn’t need to worry about carrying tonnes of water as the water from the streams was a pure as it ever could be because it flowed straight from the melted ice and snow on top of the mountains! We pitched our minuscule tent, boiled a welcome tea and coffee before we headed off to take a closer look at the Grey Glacier. It was pretty fantastic and enormous in size but we had definitely been spoilt with seeing the even more stunning Perito Moreno Glacier a few days previous. We went back to camp, demolished the tasty chilli we made the previous and were left with little choice than to grab an early night as the temperature began to drop with the sun setting.

Caroline's view

Grey Glacier and its Icebergs

Woody the Woodpecker

Kayaks in front of Grey Glacier

We woke up around 7am and Caroline cooked up a tasty power porridge considering we only had powdered milk to work with, the added tinned peaches gave us plenty of energy to take on the 11 Km hike back along the route we had taken the day before. It was much needed as all the hills we had wandered down previously were even harder clambering back up them! The scenery was equally amazing as the day before and distances were covered quickly thanks to my strict 15 minutes per chewy sweet discipline! We made it back to where the boat had dropped us off and rustled up a strange but tasty concoction of soup, quinoa, tinned tuna (akin to cat food!) and salami. It was actually miles better than it sounds and again gave us a little boost for the afternoon which would be another 8 Km trek to our nights free campsite at Campiamento Italiano.

Lunchtime View

I think the morning’s power walking session had taken its toll as we both felt pretty tired by the time we got there at 15:30. I put up the tent as Ecco went on tea and coffee duty. As soon as we’d finished we went for an early tea as we were now working like athletes and demanding calories like crazy. On the menu tonight was mushroom risotto, peas and frankfurters!! Yet again it was pretty yummy and generally was a million times better than the vast majority of other people’s tea which was either pot noodle, plain pasta or plain rice. We were spending our night camping in the woods next to a very fast flowing river of glacier melt. It made for a beautiful place with the most fantastic place to grab your drinking water and do your dishes. As with the previous day it began to get pretty nippy early on so we climbed into our sleeping bags and went to bed by around 7pm (it’s not all rock and roll this year!!). Unfortunately it was pretty cold and uncomfortable so we didn’t get the best nights sleep and woke up at at 6:30 felling pretty jaded. A quick power porridge and coffee made us feel better and we packed up a much lighter bag for the morning to make our way up the nearby mountain to get an excellent view the surrounding glaciers and mountain ranges of The French Valley. The coolest thing we saw that day was that every now and then there would be a pretty huge avalanche which would fall from the enormous mountain opposite and would then be followed by massive rumble and crash. After nearly 3 hours of pretty steep uphill climbing through streams, boulder fields and forests all surrounded by a vicious flowing glacier river we reached the lookout point at Camp Britanico. The view was absolutely spectacular up there. We sat for a few minutes and took some obligatory photos before turning back around and heading straight back down. As it was downhill we got down half an hour quicker but were pretty pooped in time for lunch.After we had repacked our tent and bags we set off on a fairly straightforward 2 hour walk to our next campsite called Los Cuernos.

Steep hill climb

For once the path was a lot more straightforward and we reached our nights campsite earlier than planned and even managed to grab a fairly pricey beer with the sun still out. Again we watched more avalanches crash down the mountain opposite and saw a couple of huge ones! The added benefit of this campsite was that it had lots of hot water and meant we could finally grab our first shower after 3 sweaty days! It felt amazing to be clean again. A surprisingly tasty dinner of instant mash and veggie mince was again wolfed down before we both retired to bed before 9 feeling pretty knackered after another 6 and half hours of trekking and a big day of 11 Km walk ahead of us the next day!

Chilenos Camp Kitchen

So our last full day of hiking began pretty coldly again so we struggled to get out of our sleeping bags. We eventually set off just after 9 and headed to the campsite at Los Chilenos which was meant to be about 4 – 5 hours walk away.

The Morning's trek route

We felt pretty used to trekking with our heavy packs now so the first couple of hours went pretty quickly with the added bonus of a cookie an hour rations! After the third hour things took a turn for the worst as it was pretty relentlessly uphill for about 45 minutes thanks to us taking the ‘shortcut’ route. When we could eventually see the Refugio (campsite) at the bottom of a kilometre long hill we got an added spring in our step and I even ran a bit of it! We made it in just under 4 hours and were a little spent. We put our tent up and had a well earned lunch. During that meal we had the crazy idea of perhaps going up to see the world famous viewpoint of Las Torres (three spiked mountain towers!) as the weather was good and we somehow still had a little energy left. Boy did we need it as it was an hour uphill and over streams to the closed Las Torres Campsite and then a pretty remarkable and very tough 45 minute scramble up and over a boulder field.

The Final climb to Las Torres

As we neared the top the tips of the three peaks appeared and looked amazing. This was nothing compared to when we finally scaled the boulders. We were greeted with a crystal blue Laguna below waterfalls descending from glaciers beneath the three 2000 metre rocky peaks. It was so beautiful it had made all the hard work and trekking worthwhile. There were plenty of times my bottom lip had come out and I’d questioned this pointless walking but finally I appreciated just how beautiful this National Park could be. A special note must go to Caroline’s relentless happiness and positivity during the whole trek. Even when we got of the boat on the first day and got absolutely drenched and freezing she said, “it’s fine, it’s nice, it’s character building and I promise it will all be worth it!” I took some persuading and there were definitely times when I wasn’t overly enamoured with so much walking, I finally got into it (perhaps as the finish line was in sight!) plus I saw it as some pretty amazing exercise and a sneaky bit of leg training for the Tough Mudder I’m doing in July again!!

Conquered Las Torres

(If you want to see Caroline’s LIVE reaction to meeting Las Torres then click here for a short video!)

The last day began with a quick uphill trek and then a pleasant, relatively easy downhill hour which left us with just enough time to have one last gas stove cooked mushroom risotto before catching the bus back to Puerto Natales. Everyone was knackered and pretty much passed out asleep for the couple of hours it took to get back to town. That night we were invited out for dinner with the lovely couple we’d met during the W Trek, Benedict from France and Mitchell from Oz (plus another Aussie/Kiwi couple). Mitchell had done a little research an found an amazing restaurant called Afrigonia which was an African influenced Patagonian food. I ordered an amazing steak and we all shared some lovely red wine which was soon to become a standard pairing as we were heading back to Argentina.

The next morning we were up super early again to cross the Argentinian border on a 14 hour bus to the last City on Earth called Ushuaia. I’d been to a place called Ushaia before but that was a super club in Ibiza on my mate’s Stag Do so I figured this time would be a little different. Unbeknown to us we also had to cross the Straits of Magellan on a large ferry. We got an added surprise when some pretty awesome looking black and white dolphins started swimming in the wake of the boat, they looked similar to Orcas but a lot smaller.

A few Patagonian Wool Lambs

After arriving pretty late we spent our first day sorting and planning a rough itinerary for the next couple of weeks as my brother would be joining us in Buenos Aires for a couple of weeks. In the evening we went out for a few beers and an average pizzas with our new found friends, Mitchell and Benedict who were doing pretty much the same route as us just a couple of days in front. This was really great as they could give us loads of handy tips on where to go and what to do.

We got up early to take a catermeran cruise to see giant Sea Lions, an amazingly photogenic lighthouse and Magellan Penguins. Caroline was ferocious in her hunt for some King Penguins (the ones on the biscuits!!) as Mitchell and Benedict had seen them the day before, but unfortunately for her (or do I mean me!). As you’d expect being the last City before the Antarctic it was blooming freezing cold whilst you were stood on the deck, so photos were taken quickly before heading back to the nice warm cabin.

Ushuaia

Scrapping Sea Lions

The beautiful lighthouse

A Shouty Penguin

Cute

We reached The End of The Earth

Once more in the interest so saving a few pounds we chose an indirect route to Buenos Aires via El Calafate which was fine apart from the slightly dull 7 hours lay over in a small airport!! On board of the second flight the lady who sat next to Caroline spent 4 hours colour correcting all her photos of the King penguins she had seen somewhere in Ushuaia! Miss Eccles was not amused, her bottom lip was out and the illusive King penguins have been added to her ever expanding ‘must see sometime’ list!

The woman and her King Penguin photos

We landed in the Argentinian capital around 10 pm and jumped straight in a taxi to take us to the B & B my brother Will had sorted out for us. We were both really excited to see him after an emotional goodbye nearly 10 months ago. He’s a very talented little man and can get extremely busy so we were delighted he’d managed to find time to join us for a little slice of our trip. As we got out the taxi I noticed another taxi pull up an instantly knew that would be him. Even though he’d left from London three hours earlier than we had from Ushuaia (in the same country!) we pulled up at exactly the same time. I think when we first saw each other we were both distracted with paying our drivers so we had a quick very formal English handshake. Then we dropped our bags and had a huge group hug. It was going to be a fun 12 days!!

We worked hard on the W trek to see some stunning scenery so please forgive me for the number of photos, but if you want to see more then just click here.

Hasta Luego.

Tommy and Caroline.
x

Intrepid Explorers!

Iceberg Right Ahead!!

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We arrived in San Pedro de Attacama – a town in the driest desert in the world – and stumbled into a YHA Hostel that had room. It seemed nice enough at first so we dumped our bags as we couldn’t check in for another couple of hours and went to find something healthy to eat after a recent diet of fried stuff and rice. When we returned to our hostel and we were shown to our room which was pretty small for two of us. However it wasn’t just the two of us as there was allegedly enough room for five people in the tiny room; one bunk bed for two and an impossibly high bunk bed for three! It was going to be cosy in the room but at least the lads in there were some friendly other British lads.

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San Pedro is quite a cool little town in the middle of the desert where the majority of buildings are still made of mud and straw and then painted white. It feels very much like a modern day cowboy town but there were some really nice hotels and restaurants there. It is also nicknamed San Perro (Perro is Spanish for dog) as there are so many dogs in the town, which of course I was a big fan of. There were so many different breeds and not many of them dogs were skanky street dogs but more like nice breads you’d pay hundreds of pounds for in England. There were Labradors, Alsatians and even Corgis running around the sandy streets.

In the town there are a few touristy things to do. The most popular one is to go and visit La Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley) where the sands and rocks are supposed to resemble the landscape on the moon, but seeing as we’d spent the last three days driving through exactly that sort of landscape I said I’d prefer to go to the salt lake at Laguna Cejar as the salty waters would be good for my poorly skin!! So not wanting to wait for the afternoon tour crowds and to save a few bob we hired a couple of mountain bikes in town and set off with basic instructions for our 40 Km round trip through the desert. The roads out to the laguna were pretty good apart from a couple of sections which were so bumpy it rattled your brain. After just over an hour Caroline (Victoria Pendleton) and I (Sir Chris Hoy) reached the laguna which was 20 kms away from town. We first went to see a salt lake that was too toxic to swim in followed by the highlight of swimming in Laguna Cejar which has a higher salt content in it than the Dead Sea. Sure enough when you went for a little dip you didn’t sink as you normally would and just floated on top of the surface. If you stood upright in the deep areas the salt water would just support you without needing to touch the bottom. It was a really bizarre feeling and the water was absolutely freezing. Whilst Eccles topped up her already ridiculous tan I sat in the shallows and gave myself a jolly good exfoliation with the salt and the water as apparently it great for Psoriasis. To be honest my skin felt pretty smooth after and I’m sure if you did it a few times in a week it would definitely help. Thoroughly cleansed, rejuvenated and refreshed we cycled back through the baking desert and had a few hours to kill before going on our Star Gazing tour in the evening. Fortunately the restaurant next us us was showing the Man City v Barca match so we settled in and watched our first bit of real footy for ages.

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Caroline is secretly a bit of a nerd and had researched a really good trip to see not just stars and constellations, but also planets like Jupiter through a very powerful telescope! We did the tour with these guys, www.spaceobs.com and would really recommend it! The guy who took the tour was a Canadian genius Astrologer called Alan and for the first hour at his ranch he gave us a really entertaining and fascinating guide of the sky above us and the best bit was that he used a clever laser pen to shoot a green line into the sky to show us exactly what he was talking about.

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He demonstrated to us just how quick the Earth is spinning by pointing at a star at the start of his talk and then showing the same star an hour later which had jumped a fair distance up in the sky. He also pointed out many of the zodiac constellations , the Milky Way and the more famous constellations. After the hours talk we all felt a little bit stupid compared to his genius but he took us inside and gave us a great cup of hot chocolate whilst the 12 telescopes were set up to look at and track many exciting stars and planets.

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The first telescope I looked through was pointing straight at Jupiter and it was fascinating to see the little yellow planet in a bit more detail, you could even make out two grey bands of cloud on the planet and 3 of its 4 moons. The other telescopes featured the brightest star in the sky, Sirius (not the North Star!), an area where new star were being created, a jewel box constellation and the highlight for me a real big close up of the moon where you could even take photographs through the telescope to get the moon’s craters in great detail. It had been a fascinating evening and one where we actually felt as though we’d learnt a bit too!!

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The following day is one of very few we won’t hurry to remember when we look back on this year as it was one where we spent 22 hours on a bus from San Pedro to the capital city of Chile, Santiago. We’ve now become so accustomed to travelling that in truth it wasn’t actually that bad and we both managed to sleep through the whole night.

When we arrived in Santiago we jumped straight on the metro and walked to our hostel (La Chimba) in the Bellavista area of the city. We’d chosen well as it was a beautiful and trendy area of Santiago, full of bars and restaurants and a really nice, but way out of our budget, courtyard with great bars! Instead we stuck to the bars at the side of the street for a few enormous bottles of Escudo local beer and went and demolished our tea as we’d not eaten properly for a day!! After that we went back to La Chimba and found out it was actually 10 times the size of what we thought and we discovered an awesome pool table where as usual I got the better of Eccles!

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Our second day in the city was spent (as usual) looking around the city and finding the Central Market for some lunch. As Chile is so long and thin it’s practically all near the coast line and subsequently the seafood is always very fresh and amazing. The Central Market is almost entirely made up of fishmongers and restaurants, so we carefully (find one that’s busy with Chileans!) picked one and asked our waitress’ advice as to what to have and hoped for the best. What we got were two amazing seafood soups made of fish, clams and mussels. Caroline’s was more of a broth and mine was a bit thicker with melted cheese thrown in too. They were both excellent and incredibly reasonable considering the quality of them both.

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In the evening I collapsed on my bed and Caroline went to explore the giant hill behind us called San Pedro Cerro where there were some incredible views over the city with the Andes Mountain range in the background. This led to some pretty awesome looking sunset photos…..

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Our final day in Santiago was a bit of a relaxing day as we were flying at 11pm that night so I took the chance to visit a cool little CrossFit gym called CrossFit Yagan and was pleasantly knackered out thanks to a few 400 metre runs! After that we took advantage of the hostel’s cable TV and watched Chelsea just beat Everton, England beat Ireland in the rugby and Man U struggle past Palace, it was nice just to see some English sport and even nicer to have some English commentary.

Our route to get to El Calafate in Argentina was not going to be a simple one. Unfortunately the price of flights in South America was a little scary so the only way we could realistically afford to get down to Southern Argentina was to take the highly inconvenient and long indirect flight via Mendoza and Buenos Aires. Unfortunately our first stop was at the very basic and empty Mendoza airport in Argentina where we landed at Midnight and had to spend the next 10 hours before flying to Buenos Aires. So we made the best of a bad situation and found a quite corner in the marble floored closed café and attempted to get what sleep we could. We both managed a bit but woke up pretty stiff from the rock hard floor. I’d like to say the next legs of the journey we fine but unfortunately when we got to our final destination of El Calafate only my rucksack had managed to make it all the way, Caroline’s was nowhere to be seen! After a fairly average conversation with the guy at the baggage desk we were told to go to our hostel and that hopefully the missing bag would turn up either tonight or tomorrow on one of the following flights!! Fortunately for everyone things like that don’t seem to really bother Caroline nowadays, so with only the clothes on her back and looking like a fake tanned, Swedish, raver in fancy dress she smiled and got on with it!! We jumped into a shuttle and went to our next hostel, I Keu Ken, on top of a hill in this quaint little town. That night we had an epic meal inn La Pura Vida restaurant in town. I had Granny’s Recipe lentil and meat casserole and Ecco had an incredible dish of stuffed pumpkin with Patagonian lamb, peaches and cheese. We washed it down with a pretty incredible tasting bottle of Benjamin’s Malbec. We hadn’t splashed out too much recently so it was amazing to do it for once and to be honest for what we ate that night it was very reasonable.

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The only reason we had busted our backs to get to El Calafate was to visit the incredible Perito Moreno Glacier and it must be said it didn’t disappoint us at all and was worth every penny, mile and sleepless hour we’d invested in it. We took the XL tour though our hostel and were taken to it along the a lot less crowded old road via some spectacular scenery and via a small, family ranch were amongst other things they had a pet fox cub.

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The great thing about our tour was that our driver dropped us right at the East end of the balconies (giant metal walkways) where it felt like we had the National Park all to ourselves. We spent the next 3 hours walking our way back along the balconies which faced out to the enormous mass of glacial ice that was across the lake. It’s the only glacier in the world that is advancing and not retreating and moves forward at a rate of 1.6 meters a day. With this movement and the strength of the glorious sunshine we were lucky enough to be greeted with some spectacular collapses / carvings of the 70 meter high ice mass opposite. It was pretty hypnotic just watching and listening to the miles and miles of glacial ice creek and crack. Sometimes the noises were so loud it sounded like gunshots and then every now and then a huge chunk would break off and splash down into the lake below with devastating effect. It would make an incredible noise and then leave a huge shockwave in the lake that would spread out like a tidal wave. We spent hours watching it and taking photos.

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Fortunately it saved its best for last because as we were back near the central balcony where it was busiest there was a loud crack and all of a sudden the whole face of the nearest point of the glacier just crumbled and cracked dropping over a hundred foot of ice and compacted snow into the water below sending an enormous surge of water down stream! It was an incredible thing to witness and I was lucky enough to capture it all on my camera!

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THE MONSTROUS COLLAPSE ON YOUTUBE!!

After that excitement we went on an hours boat ride to see this monstrous glacier from a lower point of view and up a bit closer. To be honest it was a nice boat trip but could match the excitement of the huge collapse we’d seen earlier that day.

Exhausted we went back to our lovely, homely hostel and had a BBQ they’d organised for us. For a tenner we got more meat than even I could handle and wine and beer all thrown in for the price. The chef cooked up some beautiful lamb, beef, chicken, chorizo and black pudding. We spent the evening talking to all the people from around the world in our hostel and I even spent most of the evening speaking in Spanish to the Argentinian guy sat next to me. The day had been like a lovely dream for us and we both collapsed into our beds content with the fact that today had been right up there with the most spectacular days we’ve had during our 8 and a half months up to that point!

From the lovely little El Calafate we caught a bus for 5 hours back to Chile and the small town of Puerto Natales where we would be going on a 4 day trek into the National Park of Torres Del Paine. That blog is already written and will follow pretty soon after this one as we have a little catching up to do. Must have been enjoying ourselves too much or something.

Lots of additional photos are available to look at here.

T and C.

x

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Breathtaking Bolivia

After our sensible (ish) behaviour at the fiesta in Puno we headed off to La Paz, a City with an elevation of 3,640 m (11,942 ft) with only slight headaches. We’d booked our bus through the hostel and generally whichever bus company we’d booked with in Latin America, that was the bus we travelled on. (unlike in Asia when it was sheer luck) The lovely looking bus we’d booked was nowhere to be seen and instead our transport was a bit rough around the edges. Apart from my seat being broken and seat-belt not working everything was fine!!
We arrived at the Bolivian border and realised that we (Tom) had lost my exit card from Peru…oops. Thankfully for us the authorities were willing to overlook this in return for a payment of about £6 so all in all it could have been a lot worse. Borders are generally a pain, and apart from the big queues this one was relatively straightforward and within the hour we were back on the bus continuing on with our journey. We stopped at a place called Copacabana and all piled off the bus and were told to meet again at 1pm to continue on to La Paz. Luckily for us Tom overheard the bus worker telling someone else that the time had changed and Bolivia was an hour ahead of Peru. Probably quite a useful thing to tell all the passengers!! That only gave us half an our so we grabbed a quick bite to eat and headed back to the bus.

We’d been on our new bus for about 20 minutes when the heavens opened and a hail storm commenced. Unluckily for us this coincided with the exact moment we reached the Lake Titicaca crossing and had to get off the bus and on to a rickety passenger ferry, it was very much like being back in Asia! The only slight problem being that our waterproofs were under the bus in the hold, aaah. We all huddled under a shop awning, attempting (and failing) to stay dry. As usual there were no instructions from the driver on what we were meant to be doing so we just followed some locals away from our rain shelter and onto the boat for the 5 minute journey across the lake.

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As our bus continued on I read up on La Paz. As Bolivia is one of the poorest countries in Latin America I wasn’t sure what to expect from the big city but my lonely planet informed me that the initial views were breathtaking, and not just because of the altitude…the book didn’t lie!!

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For some reason rather than going into the actual bus station our bus dropped us off just outside on a busy roundabout…why? After grabbing our bags and successfully negotiating oncoming traffic we headed towards the centre. We hadn’t actually got round to booking a hostel but I’d read about one near to the bus station so we decided to try there. It had a pool table, it’s own micro brewery and a free beer each day, you can’t ask for more from your lodgings!!

The hostel was actually great and they even had their own travel company so we could book our tickets for the death road bike trip!! Loads of people we’d spoken to who had already been to La Paz said that death road was a must see and to be honest, I don’t need much persuasion when it comes to extreme activities. There were umpteen companies to choose from for the trip but we decided a bit of research wouldn’t go amiss. Saving a few bolivianos wasn’t really worth the risk as we’d be hurtling down a mountain road at more than 30mph with vertical drops of 600 metres to our left…so we could probably do with a bike with working brakes!!

We finally decided on a company called Barracuda, they weren’t the cheapest but weren’t the most expensive and had excellent reviews. After booking the trip for the next day we headed into La Paz for a look around and to find some food. There was a nice feel about the place and we both liked it immediately. It did feel like a poorer city than ones we’d been to previously in Latin America but at the same time we didn’t feel unsafe. We’d heard reports of it being a bit dangerous but we didn’t get that impression at all. Tom read about a local steak restaurant up a hill so decided to go there and see what all the fuss was about. The steak was amazing and made us even more excited about the food we were going to eat in Argentina, a country famous for its red meat.

The next day was Death Road day and we were both really excited. Death Road was built in the 1930’s and earned it’s notoriety in 1995 after a study revealed that there were between 200-300 deaths a year on the 64 kilometre mountain track. Although a new road opened in 2006 there are still a few lorries and cars to contend with on the sometimes single track road, although not as many as in the past, thankfully. 18 backpackers have need killed since cyclists started tackling its hairpin bends 12 years ago, so it’s definitely not for the faint hearted!! We drove through some incredible scenery to get to our starting point, which wasn’t actually death road. We were going to practise first on a very steep downhill road but without the scary drops at the side!!

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It was great fun hurtling down these wide roads but it did make you realise the speeds you could get…we probably didn’t want to go quite so fast when there was a 600 metre drop at the side of the road!!

After the practice section was complete we got back onto the bus and drove up to the start of death road passing a sign with an arrow pointing to “the road of death”, lovely. Our guide was brilliant and gave us information on what to expect from each section along with his golden rule, don’t be a f**king idiot! He told us a story about a couple who’d been taking pictures of each other whilst riding and the girl turned around to smile at her boyfriend and went straight over the edge and died…note to self, eyes on the road at all times!!

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The whole day was absolutely amazing and actually wasn’t as scary as I’d anticipated. In parts the road was only the width of a single vehicle and was gravelly with large stones and rocks rather than lovely smooth tarmac like on our practice road. At one point a huge lorry sounded it’s horn, which was deafening as it came hurtling around the corner at us, that was pretty scary. There isn’t as much traffic on the road now, thankfully, I can’t even imagine watching 2 cars try and overtake each other. (There was a Top Gear special where they did this) The views along the road were amazing, although I only glanced at them very briefly for fear of ending up like the aforementioned girl.

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All on all it was a brilliant day riding through waterfalls and streams along the most dangerous road in the he world. At the end we stopped for some food and a well deserved beer and celebrated surviving a bike trip down the world’s most dangerous road!!

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The next day we went for a wander around the city. I wanted to go and see the prison (more about that later) and the witches’ market. The Witches’ Market is run by local witch doctors and sells weird and wonderful potions and powders used in Bolivian rituals. The most bizarre thing they sell are dried up Llama foetus which when buried under foundations of Bolivian homes bring good luck, it was so interesting to see. After that we headed to the main plaza where the pink prison was located. I can understand why people may think it’s odd to want to see a prison in Bolivia, but this is no ordinary jail.

San Pedro prison is the largest prison in La Paz and is renowned for being a society within itself. Inmates at San Pedro have jobs inside the prison community, buy or rent their accommodation, and often live with their families. The prison is home to approximately 1,500 inmates (not including the women and children that live inside the walls with their convicted husbands), with additional guests staying in the prison hotel. Within the prison walls there are shops and restaurants and it looks more like a town square than a prison. If you are rich you can buy a room in the 5 star area which has incredible facilities including jacuzzis whilst the poorer people are in the 1 or no star areas where they share windowless cells. Up until 2013 tourists could have a tour of the prison led by an inmate but this was stopped by the government because it was being used as a way to sell cocaine to tourists. (although apparently they can still happen if you bribe a guard) The weird part about it all is the guards don’t enter the cells. The prisoners basically do as they wish cook their own food and have to pay for everything within the prison. I was ridiculously intrigued by this place so wanted to go and see it. From the outside it didn’t look like a prison (probably because it was pink and right in the middle of the city plaza) and as we looked through the main door into the courtyard we could see a mass of prisoners just wandering around, bizarre.

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Our next stop in Bolivia was a place called Uyuni which was about a 15 hour overnight bus ride away. We’d heard reports that the roads were pretty bad and the bus journey wasn’t at all comfortable. We decided to try and counteract his by paying a bit more for a comfier bus but to be honest I don’t think it made much difference. The road seemed pretty similar to the condition of death road, albeit without the sheer drops, and we both got little sleep.

We arrived in Uyuni at 8am and headed straight to the office to pay for our three day two night salt flats tour which I’d booked the day before. This was the main reason we’d wanted to come to Bolivia as the famous salt flats and surrounding lagoons are said to be one of the highlights of South America. The problem was because there were so many people wanting to do the trip, there were tons of different tour companies with varying degrees of safety and reliability. I’d read stories of drivers bring drunk and falling asleep at the wheel, inedible food and disinterested guides to name but a few complaints. After scouring reviews I settled with a family run company called Quechua Connections, and kept my fingers crossed that I’d made a good choice.
First impressions were good and after paying for the trip we headed off for breakfast and to investigate the public shower. Uyuni was a very basic looking town in the middle of the desert so I didn’t hold out much hope for a decent shower in the public toilets, but I was proved wrong. Our standards are so low now that having a wash in an outhouse with stone floors, no roof and insects everywhere was actually an enjoyable experience all because there was warm water!!

Our tour began with with a trip to see 700+ year old cacti and the train cemetery. It was really odd to see so many abandoned trains in the middle of the desert. They were used for transporting mined minerals up until the 1940s but once they were no longer needed they were all dumped in the desert.

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From there we headed to the world’s largest salt flats, Salar de Uyuni, 3,656 meters (11,995 ft) above sea level. The flats are 10,582 square kilometers (4,086 sq mi) and were absolutely beautiful. It felt and looked like we were driving on ice but obviously it was salt. As we were visiting in rainy season we were a bit concerned that we wouldn’t get the funny photos everyone had been showing us, we needed have worried. We started off at the wet ice and it was like looking at a giant mirror. The effect it had on the horizon was amazing and at times it was impossible to tell where the land ended and the sky began, just beautiful.

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After sitting on the beautiful wet salt to eat some food we sat on top of the van and were taken to the dry flats. There, along with two people from our jeep (there were 6 of us in the jeep but a spanish couple didn’t want to take part!?) we spent an hour and a half having great fun playing with perspectives. Luckily for us our guide/driver Dion had brought tons of props and was brilliant at setting up the photos, we had so much fun.

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After we felt like we had enough photos we headed off to watch the sunset over the reflecting wet salt flats. Our driver took us away from the crowds and found us a quiet piece of salt with no-one else around and we just sat and watched the huge orange ball disappear beyond the horizon whist drinking coffee and eating biscuits. It was honestly one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever seen

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That night we stayed at a lodge run by more members of the family and we were thankful for an early night after an unforgettable day.

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After breakfast we headed off into the desert to see lagoons, flamingos and breathtaking scenery.

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The pictures honestly don’t do any of it justice and we were all constantly amazed at the vastness and prettiness of our surroundings. That night we stayed at a very basic but rustic stone lodge in the middle of the desert. There were a few other tour groups there and this was when we realised that we really had lucked out with our company choice. Whilst everyone else was eating pasta and sauce we say down and tucked into a 3 course meal with wine and then Dion and the other guide from our group Jose built us a bonfire and joined us outside to star gaze and drink red wine around the bonfire.

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The next morning We had to be up at 4.30 am so we could watch the sun rise up over the geysers. Wandering around the smelly geysers was a bit like something from a horror film and I felt like the ground would give way at any moment and I’d fall in to the stinky sulphuric cauldron. Luckily this didn’t happen and we couldn’t stay for more than 10 minutes due to the harmful gases.

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From here we headed to the natural hot springs. Our guide told us to go in straight away before all the crowds turned up, it was relatively quiet at this point. It was still only 6.30am and pretty chilly, the last thing I felt like doing was stripping off into my bikini in what felt like sub zero temperatures…but the steam coming from the hot pools was too enticing.

It was like getting into a bath when you’re really cold and the bath is a little bit too hot! Once we’d adjusted though it was amazing, although getting back out into the cold wasn’t enjoyable!

After breakfast and a quick visit to the green lagoon our whistle stop tour of Bolivia was over and we headed for the Chile border. I wish we’d had more time to explore this amazingly beautiful and diverse country but I’m really pleased we had chance to experience what we did. Bolivia may be one of the poorest countries in Latin America but it’s blessed with some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen.

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As usual we have lots more photos, please click here to have a look.